Starting Out This part is exactly the same as what Victor described. See http://www.celica-garage.cityslide.com/articles/article.cfm/522/40906 Remove the switch unit and open it up. Note the marks I added where the other contact pads would be.

Next, solder two fine wires about 5 cm long to the points shown. Thanks to Victor's article for this part, I wouldn't have figured the circuit out alone.

The Sticky Bit Now fold the wires back and lay on top of the board. Be careful to route them out of the way of the other contact points. Once you have the wires routed, secure them in place with a few drops of superglue. Careful here... this part can be messy if a wire moves before the glue sets. The glue I used seems to dissolve the black coating of one of the contacts. Maybe hotmelt glue would be better?

Making a new Pad Now you need to make a new contact pad using conductive paint. As you can see, you don't have to be particularly neat, as long as you don't let the two patches touch. Use the paint to draw lines up to the ends of the wires and complete the connection. (My excuse for the messy job? trying to do fine work after drinking a couple of cups of coffee... drink a beer instead for steadier hands )

And here's the magical conductive paint I was talking about. Rear window defogger repair paint. Pick it up at Canadian Tire - it's a bit pricey but hey, now you've got it in case you ever need to actually repair your rear window defogger. It's also handy for unlocking the L1 bridges on your Athlon CPU

Ready to Rock ! You might think (as I did at first) that you could just slap everything back together and you'd be good to go. After all, Toyota thoughtfully provided extra contact pucks in the switch membrane already... Not so fast sonny! Pull out the white silicon rubber sheet from the switch shell and you'll notice that a few parts are missing. Dirty trick #1

Dirty Trick #2 Not only are the plungers missing from the unused contacts, but there aren't even any holes for them! Well, I wasn't about to let that stop me...

On With the Show Remove the cover and flip the switch shell over, then you can carefully pry the toggle off. You can see four holes under where the toggle was, two at the front and two at the back. One of these holes does not go through... but not for long

Making a new Plunger I found a nail with a large head about the same diameter as the plungers. You'll want to figure out what you can use as a plunger before you drill out the blocked hole because the sizes should match pretty closely. Select a drill size so that your plunger slides freely but does not wobble.

Here's my new plunger trimmed to length. I ended up using a 3/32" drill and wrapping the nail with tape for a good fit. A 1/8" drill is larger than the stock holes, I think they must be 3 mm.

Dirty Trick #3 Scroll back up a couple of pictures and look closely on the switch shell where the toggle was. The "shoulders" of the mounting block have little tabs that prevent the toggle from rocking back far enough to push the plungers far enough for the smaller (auto) contact puck to touch the board. Convoluted sentance there... well you'll understand if you play with the assembly a bit. When you push the auto-down switch, you feel a second click and the switch moves a bit farther. This is because the little black pucks embedded in the silicone are farther away from the surface. You have to push farther for these pucks to make contact, meanwhile the main contacts are already touching but since they're all mounted in the silicone, it squishes and with a little more force flexes enough for the second puck to make contact. Anyways, back to the show... Nail clippers made short work of those tabs, and now the toggle will rock backwards just a little farther. Unfortunately, because of the way the toggle is shaped, you can't feel a distinct click with the auto-up as you can with the auto-down, but you do have to pull it farther so you can still jog the window up by lifting lightly. And that's it! slap everything back together the same way it came apart and you're done.