Celica Forums General Discussion General 2000 Gts Power Problems ? ( You Want To Read This )

Hello
~Newbie Here 1st Post~

I have a 2000 Celica Gts my partner has a 2000 celiac gt I work on them both. We raced for the 1st time the other day and I lost and until this happened I was in denial about how much power I had really lost. Some times their is a pop sound from the exhaust but once in a while I have a glass pack on it and a K&N filer. It just seems here lately it doesn't pull like it should when I race or when im out playing with it. The gas mileage is not so good and their is a unburned gas smell or a smelly exhaust but not the bad cat smell more like a mechanic smells.

Almost everything I have tried to eliminate this problem, I have a palm pilot dyne and I scanned for codes and no codes. I checked the fuel injectors as the software I have said the popping exhaust was from a stuck open injector but the injectors all matched @ 15ohms im not sure what the ohms is for our cars but I do know to test them all and when one or more is way off like higher or lower than the rest its most likely that injector.

It really seems like it getting to much gas their is no back fire but an occasional pop from the exhaust. plugs are new and installed competently. I am at the end of my rope I don't want to take it to the dealer and pay 90.00 for a mechanic to tell me its something already knew I just didn't think that could be it.

Thanks Guy's For Reading

~Rick~

o2 sensor?

That's my guess...

Or maybe dirty TB

your 'lift bolts' may be broken or cracked. this prevents a celica gts from hitting lift, or if it does hit lift the force is significantly reduced.

also, where are you shifting? you are shifting at at LEAST redline, right? if you shift before lift in a celica gts (before the 6k rpm mark) a celica gt will beat you (the engines are basically the same in both cars until you hit the 6k rpm mark in a gts where 'lift' is induced)

Man thanks guys!

I didn't know the engine is the same, but I shift at lift every time but yea the power is on and off sometime in lift I thought the lit bolts you guy's already had post about that but the power loss is out of lift and carries over into lift.

I really did not know the Gts had the same power until it hit lift man talk about a shock. Anyone know how to test the o2 sensors to see if they are functioning right.

Thanks again all :-)

or you may need to clean your MAF

cleaned MAF 3 times no go, TB no go, it's to the point im wondering if it ignition or fuel system. It seems like clutch but the rpm's don't shoot up in 4th gear when I floor it. The o2 sensor upstream doesn't pause or stay high or low on voltage but its not a real rapid up and down fluctuation on the voltage more slow that rapid. The lift bolts only affect lift so if they was broken their would only be a problem in lift right not out of lift it seems like the problem carries over into lift though they could be broke. How hard should it pull in lift, moderately or some real noticeable gain that jolts you back into your seat ? ( No codes from it so help from the ECU )

Again thanks...

it cudd be the clutch im no pro but i had a lose in power when my clutch almost was dead, and when i stoped and whend out side i smellt the fhing you was talking about (i fhink)

I swear I thought the clutch was part of the problem but a transmission shop swears up and down if you can put it in 4th gear and then floor it and the rpm's don't jolt up or redline then the clutch is not slipping. But all through 1-2-3 the rpm's move faster than the mpg they don't jolt redline when I floor it but the rpm's do move way faster than the MPH.

I just got done putting the valve cover back on. The Intake lift bolt is broke. The back one you can see it has damage to the bolt. I would like to know if anyone has removed the broken part and if so did you use those reverse drill outs that you drill a small hole in the bolt then use the correct size and slowly turn it until it bites then slowly back it out. I'm sure I could use a cover over the head like a surgeon and leave only the area I need to work in to prevent shaving from drilling, and then a shop-vac to suck the area clean then remove as I said above.

Has anyone done this before or is their another way to do it. I don't see this way damaging anything I would be like a surgeon when im in their and the area I doubt I would but just asking.

Hey thanks to all of you guys/girls you are all very nice people I thought for sure the new guy was going to get **pounded** (LOL) makes me feel good being here I'm glad I bought my Celica.

Thanks!

~Rick~

Ps:

-My name is rick
-I'm 27
-Self Employeed
-Live in Kansas (Wish I was back on the beach)

--One more thing--

I run a mail order company we sell body kits my cost starts @ 350.00 plus shipping from http://www.visracing.com or http://www.sensemotorsport.com/ ... im just offering you may be able to get them less than that but shipping is 130.00 for the 1st kit and 30.00 each additional kit so if you guy's paired up also the price goes down under 300 if I buy 10 or more.

now i finally understand what you mean by "partner."

What nobody mentioned is that the lift bolts dont really get wear JUST from hitting lift. the vvti puts wear on them too. just not as much. and for anyone else reading this those are stereo typical signs of a broken lift bolt

I suggest if you are still under warranty have the dealer remove the broken piece.

or a drill, magnet, easy out are your friend

Good luck!

More than likely I will get back in their today and replace the bolt.

To be continued...

it's really easy if you have a small drill bit and an easy out 20 mins tops

JUST DO NOT HIT THE THREADS WITH THE DRILL. That is very bad.

Update! ( Removed )

I finished removing the broken part of the broken lift bolt about 15min ago @ 12:45pm.

As most or all of you already know their is a simple tutorial here http://www.teamcelica.com/tech/installs/liftbolts/ I found it to be to drawn out it could possibly detour some people from doing to project.

If anyone here can install a head they can easily do this. The only real concern as mentioned by (Lucky_317) is not to hit the walls also his advice on using the magnet was A+ I used a small fillips screw driver that was magnetized and slowly removed all the metal shaving from drilling after I backed it up enough then I finished backing it out.

Thanks ... Lucky_317

$15.00 in tools vs: $500 @ Dealer