Celica Forums General Discussion Exterior Modified APR Strutbar

Most off you who have bought an APR strutbar,
know that, when you've got aftermarket suspension, you have to jack up your car in order to tighten the 6 screws!

But when you do so, the (red/blue) plates will get under some stress, when you lower the car! AND this can't be good IMO
Also you can't completly srew the plates against the chassis of the car!

Since i didn't know al off this, i used a lathe to modify the plates!
and now it's fits perfectly TIGHT!
But i had to buy a new battery (VARTA (dimensions: H190mm-L242mm-D175mm) wich is 55Amps instead of 50Amps), because the old one was too high, because the bar can now be screwed complety against the chassis!



Original:

Original 2

Modified

Modified 2

Under the hood

Under the hood 2

cool

nicely done

Looks nice but if you wanted to save yourself the trouble you should have gone with Tanabe

Here's a close-up

Actually i wanted a RMM strutbar, but they couldn't deliver that anymore at the place where i get my stuff

And they suggested me to buy an APR... so i did...

pretty cool

So... but why the APR made the bar with the small round center holes??? Why they did not do it with a larger holes???
WHY?! What was the reason???
P.S. How did you cut the hole??? Which tool did you use?

just to make people mad

I guess they did it to make it fit with the stock baterry...

Good job looks legit, but I hope it holds up. You just changed things that APR didn't have there in the first place. I'm not an engineer, but the load might be transferred in irregular ways or better. It's just a strut bar so it can't do that much harm or might help chasis flex more. I'm sure that you will hear some sounds coming from the strut bar after modifications like that. I'm going with the Tanabe until something else comes out. The APR always looked cheap, just for show. That's my 2 cents plus a nickel.

^ Naw, it'll hold up. It's got a similar design to Tanabe. Plus it's bolted to the end plates, which is stonger than welding.

Actually it'll probably be a lot stronger cause now it has a flush contact which the strut tower. a normal APR sits too high and puts all the pressure on the center raised part of the strut tower. This is the reason i sold mine, why couldn't those idiots have done this and then made the bar raised enough for batt clearance like the Hotchkis bar.

Much props on the cutting job.

But how much of the load will be transferred to the stock upper mounts and the shocks below? My Hotchkis strut tower bar is scrap metal sitting in my basement. I ruined the camber plates in the first 8 months. I'm just posting a hypothetical question about changing the points and adding maybe an unspecified load. It looks great, I hope it works great, and probably will. I just would rather go for something else other than APR. Like I said before it just looks cheap, just for show. insanecelica's modifications look great. I give you credit.