Celica Forums General Discussion Exterior wtf fuse/short prob

wtf, toyota has had my car since 7am and they said that they did a diagnostic and everything was fine...then they drove it with night lights and fog lights on and still no fuse prob... i was like wtf , i told them this is no occassional prob , that i've gone thru like ten fuses. the guy said they gonna drive it once more with lights and everything on, if no prob then they just giving back and to bring back when the prob occurs. if the fuse blows tnight i'm gonna be pissed. dunno what this prob could be, any ideas???

thx all

what electrical mods have you done???

i havent done any mods to my electrical sys yet... i even have stock stereo... i have a 1400 watt ppi amp with two fozgate 12's but i dont think i'm gonna put em in the celica.
i got my car back tday and it popped another fuse so i took it back and now i got a pos corolla loaner car they dont know wtf is wrong, they keeping my car all day tday and tommorrow to try and find the prob

anyone have any ideas??? obviously toyota doesnt

thanx for the help all

well i finally got my car back... turns out a stupid tail light bulb had blow but it got so hot when it blew that the filament reconnected, but it was pulling way to much juice so it wuld blow my fuse but hell at least i got my car back, i just dont know y it took em three days to find that prob .

thx for the help all

wtf its still not fixed, toyota doesnt know what they are doin...said it was a bulb then fuse blows again...have to take my car back in again...i havent had my car since fri...dont wanna have to lemon it

this sux

I am having the same problems 10A tail light fuse keeps blowing. Sometimes the brake fuse also blows.

I was installing new LED low beam head lights so a few wires may be twisted, exposed and shorted.

Put in a 30A to keep it working. 30A fuse does nto blow, keep tail light working until I can check the wires a gain. PIA.

The OEM Celica tail/brake light is dual filament incandescent 7440.

I replaced them with a LED bulb in the original socket, bought from China via eBay. One is fine, one bulb's wire got hot and burned, melted the socket. It did not blow the fuse and worked well for a couple years. One license plate wire had cracks along 6 inch length.

Eventually I had a short somewhere, tail light fuse blew. A craigslist guy wanted $150 diagnostics then more for repairs. I did not want to spend that money, guessing the shorts are easy to find, went in trouble shooting, replacing the 7.5 A with a 30A so the bulbs stay on long enough for me to find the short, but it overheated, burned and melted the fuse panel, blew the Body Control Module which costs $1,100 at dealer. Most other light bulbs and body functions went kaput, only front head lights and power windows were working. I spent lots of time in many days trying to find and fix the problem to no avail, causing more serious damages. Damn stupid. I was able to buy an used BCM/Fuse panel in eBay for $70.

I suspected a branch of wire harness was shorting inside the hatch's channel, was about to cut wires, pull it out and check for shorts, finally I wised up that I had no tools, did not know how to remove the rear defrosters' terminals without breaking. I called my trusty mechanics, he referred me to a local chassis electrical guy. He said $95 to find and fix the short. He installed the new BCM, things started working again. He looked at the tail light wiring and took out all body plastic panels, found the tail light wire had insulation completely melted along the whole length and a burned out spot behind the panel at the left passenger side. The guy who installed the digital video camera took that panel out and could likely have pinched the wire against the chassis, but that wire is also in the middle of the harness, so who knows.

Repair guy found the tail light wire got hot enough to melt and burn off insulation all along its length. He also found the license plate bulb's insulation brittled, cracked and open in a length about 6 ", could only be caused by heat. This tiny LED bulb supposedly draws very little DC current. I cannot explain why it got so hot. He had to unbundle the wire harness and run a long replacement wire from the burn spot to the fuse box under the dash. He said he found lots of problems with LED bulbs. He repaired thousands cars and should better than I. He replaced all rear light bulbs with incandescent. I paid him $200 total for the extra work. This guy is good and honest, recommended.

Any bros has bette rundersatanding of this LED problem, would be interesting to know.