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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
i have a 2000 gts manual and i was getting in my car i start driving put it into second and step all the way down on hte accelorator and whatch my tack go up as i am waiting for lift my car goes to 7000 rpm and them wont go any higher i just peaks out at that point and i get no lift i tried this twice and i got the same results. i go to my shop wai about 1hr and them go home. on my way home i trie to achive lift again and this time it worked whats going on? are my lift bolts dying on me? and if they are does anybody have any i can by because i am shure toyota will rape me with there price. i have 49000 miles on my car i need help
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92 |
This is a safety feature. It will not engage unless the engine has been warmed up passed a certain temperature. In other words, it won't kick in if the engine is still cold.
2000 GTS BOMEX FRONT BUMPER R2 SIDES (MOLDED-IN) BUDDYCLUB BACK BUMPER 18" WHITE ADR GT SPORT
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
so are you saying i don't need new lift bolts
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342
dikitzaps 1974 Toyota Celica
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dikitzaps
1974 Toyota Celica
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342 |
if your engine wasnt warmed up when you couldnt hit lift then you're fine.
was the engine warm?
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
i bilieve it was at the bottom of the little digital gauge so no but when it got to the second notch it still wasn't possible to lift
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342
dikitzaps 1974 Toyota Celica
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dikitzaps
1974 Toyota Celica
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342 |
it needs to be fully warmed up... like where it is after you've been driving for a few minutes... i think your lift is fine.
just for the future... its not a good idea to rev your engine high before its warmed up because your oil pressure is not up where its supposed to be... thus resulting in uneccesary friction in the engine and causeing wear.
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92 |
Even though your lift still works fine, It would still be a good idea to change them out A.S.A.P to the new guide bolts. Mine broke and it was a biatch to remove the broken piece specially if the guide shaft rotates with the broken piece still inside (just like mine did). Check out my profile to see the broken bolt.
2000 GTS BOMEX FRONT BUMPER R2 SIDES (MOLDED-IN) BUDDYCLUB BACK BUMPER 18" WHITE ADR GT SPORT
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
so how much are lift bolts and if i go to toyota how much will they charge me for the installation
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894 |
^i'm with them. let your engine warm up first. it doesn't allow you to hit lift when it's not warmed up for a reason.
rip celi... 95 240sx
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894 |
so how much are lift bolts and if i go to toyota how much will they charge me for the installation i believe the bolts will be less than 5 dollars. I think toyota sell's them for less than a dollar each, someone correct me if i'm wrong. if you have basic mechanical skills you will be able to replace the bolts yourself(remove valve cover and take out old bolts and replace new bolts - replace valve gasket if needed), search on the site for the Lift Bolt TSB and there's a full instruction guide on it. however if your lift bolts are BROKEN, i suggest you take it to a shop.
rip celi... 95 240sx
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Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 92 |
I think it's less than a dollar each, but they'll rape you on the labor!!!!!. Just have somebody mechanically inclined to do it for you.
2000 GTS BOMEX FRONT BUMPER R2 SIDES (MOLDED-IN) BUDDYCLUB BACK BUMPER 18" WHITE ADR GT SPORT
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
so it is possible to install them by myself even though i don't have the best mechanical skills
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Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342
dikitzaps 1974 Toyota Celica
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dikitzaps
1974 Toyota Celica
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 5,342 |
so it is possible to install them by myself even though i don't have the best mechanical skills possible... but if you dont know your engine like the back of your hand then dont do it... its way complicated to do especially if the bolts are broken and have dropped down. bring it to toyota. edit -- unless you;re from socal ... then get lucky_317 to do it.
Last edited by spaztikid; Mar 2, 2004 12:37am.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115
Member 2000 Toyota Celica
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Member
2000 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 115 |
if i take my car to toyota should i remove my aftermarket intake and ground kit? and how long does it tke to do this
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894
Senior Member
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 894 |
you really can do it yourself. search for the TSB on the Lift bolts. it wouldn't take me longer than half an hour at most.
rip celi... 95 240sx
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Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 42
Member 1991 Toyota Celica STX
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Member
1991 Toyota Celica STX
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 42 |
it needs to be fully warmed up... like where it is after you've been driving for a few minutes... i think your lift is fine.
just for the future... its not a good idea to rev your engine high before its warmed up because your oil pressure is not up where its supposed to be... thus resulting in uneccesary friction in the engine and causeing wear. Very very true. The proper way to begin your drive EVERYTIME is to start the car. Don't rev don't do any of that. Just give it the little touch on the gas that it needs to start, no more. Then let it run for a few mins in the winter. Turn off you heat, in a few mins, turn it on, if warm air comes out, you can move. If it's still cold, wait some more. In the summer. Wait 2 mins no less. The reason for this is your car needs to get up to optimal operating temp. Just for examples sake...lets say that temp is 250 F. In the summer, say it's 95 F. In your engine bay, it's more like 115 or so. That's a long way from 250 still...So you still need to wait for that temp to jump up there. In the old days before EFI, you had carburetors and if you weren't warm enough, your car stalled when you punched it. Now we have EFI, and for many dolt heads, they think that means they can just start it right up and get the heck outta there. WARNING: THIS IS BAD. Sure, you could start right up and go, EFI compensates and pumps a different amount of fuel into the chamber. (simple version, long version is a bit wordy...) but you don't wanna do that if you don't want to cause damage to your car in the long run. I mean REALLY long run. This is a long term damage thing here. You aren't going to blow your engine in shot here. lol. But I run my car so hard normally that I want to do EVERYTHING I can to minimize unnessesary damage. I have so much info I don't know where to start. My own thread for one. lol. Included in the idiotic things I see way to many people do...too big an exhust tip, rims too big for their engine output (yes, there IS a reason why companies don't put 18's on a frelling Civic...), over exagerating HP and Torque figures when adding coldair/ exhust/etc. And one of my favorites to flame about...lowering their car. If I see ONE more damn punk who says they lowered their car and they only spent 300 to do it...I'm going to kill them. First off, the toe and camber kit ALONE costs 300...don't know what a toe and camber kit is? Don't know why you need one? Think I don't know what I'm talking about? Ask and you shall receive. If I see enough posts asking me for the info, I'll explain my post here in detail in a separate thread using objective, logical, and true explanations.
Sometimes I just sit in the garage staring at this beautiful wolf, doing nothing, just admiring it. Life feels gooood when you have a Celica in your garage.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,864 Likes: 1
Specialist 2002 Toyota Celica
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Specialist
2002 Toyota Celica
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,864 Likes: 1 |
it needs to be fully warmed up... like where it is after you've been driving for a few minutes... i think your lift is fine.
just for the future... its not a good idea to rev your engine high before its warmed up because your oil pressure is not up where its supposed to be... thus resulting in uneccesary friction in the engine and causeing wear. Very very true. The proper way to begin your drive EVERYTIME is to start the car. Don't rev don't do any of that. Just give it the little touch on the gas that it needs to start, no more. Then let it run for a few mins in the winter. Turn off you heat, in a few mins, turn it on, if warm air comes out, you can move. If it's still cold, wait some more. In the summer. Wait 2 mins no less. The reason for this is your car needs to get up to optimal operating temp. Just for examples sake...lets say that temp is 250 F. In the summer, say it's 95 F. In your engine bay, it's more like 115 or so. That's a long way from 250 still...So you still need to wait for that temp to jump up there. In the old days before EFI, you had carburetors and if you weren't warm enough, your car stalled when you punched it. Now we have EFI, and for many dolt heads, they think that means they can just start it right up and get the heck outta there. WARNING: THIS IS BAD. Sure, you could start right up and go, EFI compensates and pumps a different amount of fuel into the chamber. (simple version, long version is a bit wordy...) but you don't wanna do that if you don't want to cause damage to your car in the long run. I mean REALLY long run. This is a long term damage thing here. You aren't going to blow your engine in shot here. lol. But I run my car so hard normally that I want to do EVERYTHING I can to minimize unnessesary damage. I have so much info I don't know where to start. My own thread for one. lol. Included in the idiotic things I see way to many people do...too big an exhust tip, rims too big for their engine output (yes, there IS a reason why companies don't put 18's on a frelling Civic...), over exagerating HP and Torque figures when adding coldair/ exhust/etc. And one of my favorites to flame about...lowering their car. If I see ONE more damn punk who says they lowered their car and they only spent 300 to do it...I'm going to kill them. First off, the toe and camber kit ALONE costs 300...don't know what a toe and camber kit is? Don't know why you need one? Think I don't know what I'm talking about? Ask and you shall receive. If I see enough posts asking me for the info, I'll explain my post here in detail in a separate thread using objective, logical, and true explanations. i dropped my car for less than 200$ after the coupon. jk. good explanations you got there. typing about the toe and camber kit is worth it though if you have time. i duno nothing about that? toe? camber? wuts that
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 146
Member 2001 Toyota Celica
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Member
2001 Toyota Celica
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 146 |
Dude its the fact you didnt warm ur car up and then you tried to hit lift. Cold Car + High RPMS= NOT GOOD!!!!! Wait for your car to warm up before you hit it, give the celi a brake. Hell once you wake up in the morning your not all ready to be run the hell out of!!!
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Joined: August 2004
Thank you.: me, myself, and I...! Random: a bowl of rice, fried chicken, and a glass of water!
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