AEM Big Brake Install by Larry D |
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Please be sure to read the entire install guide before embarking on this adventure because you may find that you need something you do not have and your car will be in pieces |
Tools needed |
14, 17, 19 mm socket, 17 mm wrench, needle nose pliers or brake pad expanders, large allen key, torque wrench, and all parts that come with the rotors |
Optional : 2 bolts (M8x1.25), WD-40, Hammer (the bigger the better) |
Comparison Pictures |
Front Stock vs Front AEM | Rear Stock vs Rear AEM |
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Front |
Here is a picture of the stock front rotor (Figure 1) |
1) | Jack up front of vehicle, support the vehicle using properly rated jack stands. (note.. I used the stock jack and it worked fine, but I only jacked up one side of the car at a time) |
| a) Position wheel chocks on each side of rear wheels | |
| b) Remove front wheels of vehicle | |
2) | Remove the braking system, procedure is identical between both sides | |
| a) Remove caliper by loosening the 2 17mm bolts on the rear of the rotor (probably need to use the wrench here cause of limited space)(see figure2) | |
(Figure 2) | |
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| b) Use zip tie to support the caliper so that no weight is on the brake line | |
3) | Remove rotor, it may appear stuck pull HARD or use hammer ** If appears stuck (Look at the rotors (front and rear). Each has 2 little holes on opposite side. You screw little bolts (M8x1.25) into these holes (1/4 turn at a time, alternating). The bolts will put an incredible amount of pressure agains the hub and the rotor will pop right off.) ** I used WD40 to loosen up the rotor before using the hammer to pop it off, but Ive been told that you shouldnt use WD40 because it can be corrosive to the brake pads.. So if you do use WD40 then be sure to wash everything down with brake parts cleaner (it comes in another convienient spray can). |
4) | Check hubs for rust, if rusted remove with metal wire brush. Also make sure the stock hydraulic lines are not damaged. Here is a Picture of the Front Hub with No Caliper Or Rotor |
(Figure 3) | |
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5) | Use the allen key bolts to mount the caliper relocation bracket. Torque down to 50 ft-lbs |
(Figure 4) | |
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6) | Mount the AEM rotor using 2 or 3 lug nuts to make sure the rotor is on flush. (make sure the rotor is clean so you dont ruin the brake pad) ** I had to bend back the splash gaurd so it was not in the way |
7) | Expand the brake pads. You need to compress the piston on the caliper so that it while fit back on the rotor. Use either a bake pad expander, needle nose pliers or your hands (I used my hands so that the brake pads would not get damaged) |
8) | Use the 19 mm bolts to remount the caliper torque down to 50 ft- lbs |
9) | Spin the rotor to make sure it doesnt hit anything |
10) | Remove wheel lug nuts and then Remount tire |
| Final Pictures Of Front Setup |
(Figure 5) |
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(Figure 6) |
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Rear |
| Here is a picture of the stock rear rotor before anything has been done to it| |
(Figure 7) |
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11) | Jack up rear of vehicle, support the vehicle using properly rated jack stands. (note.. I used the stock jack and it worked fine, but I only jacked up one side of the car at a time) |
| a) Position wheel chocks on each side of front wheels | |
| b) Remove rear wheels of vehicle | |
12) | Remove the braking system, procedure is identical between both sides |
| a) Remove caliper by loosening the 2 14mm bolts on the rear of the rotor (refer to figure 2) | |
| b) Zip tie the caliper up as done on the front | |
13) | Remove Rotor, use same procedure as front removal (note.. make sure the parking brake is disengaged and your car is in gear) |
14) | Check rear hub for rust, if rusted remove with metal wire brush. Also make sure the stock hydraulic lines are not damaged. |
15) | Use the Hex Head bolts and lock washers provided to mount the caliper relocation bracket torque down to 30 ft-lbs |
(Figure 8) |
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16) | Mount the AEM rotor as done on the front ** I had to bend back the splash gaurd so it was not in the way |
17) | Expand the break pads |
18) | Use the stock bolts to mount the caliper |
19) | Spin the rotor to make sure it doesnt hit anything |
20) | Remove wheel lug nuts and then Remount tire |
| Final Picture Of The Rear Setup |
(Figure 9) |
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(Figure 10) |
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After the new rotors have been put on the brakes must be ˜broken in. So be carefully when first driving around| It is a MUST that you pump your brakes while the car is sitting still several times until the pedal feels firm again, otherwise you will make the same mistake as I did and realize quickly you have no brakes |
Note From AEM: Please note that you must replace your brake pads to ensure your warranty as old pads can wear unevenly and, subsequently, cause your rotor to wear unevenly/prematurely |
Procedures Direct From AEM |
In order to maximize the benfits that this brake upgrade kit offers the driver, it is essential that the rotors and or brake pads are bedded-in correctly. The following procedure should be followed |
1) | On an empty street or open parking lot accelerate the vehicle to 40mph |
2) | Apply brake using moderate pedal effort reducing speed to 3mph, (DO NOT STOP if at all possible) |
3) | Repeat steps 1 and 2 between 8-10 times allowing 1/4 - miles between brake applications |
The bedding-in in procedure is now complete and the vehicle can be driven in a normal manner. Adherence to this necessary procedure will optimize the performance of the braking system |
And lastly a picture of all the AEM rotors on my car | (Figure 11) |
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For more information on the brakes, check out BuyBrakes.com |