Celica Forums General Discussion Exterior RX-7

how well does an RX-7 perform and are there mods good buck for HP?

thanks

depends on what rx7 your talking about

im talkin about a 93 or 92 convertiable...guy is selling one thinking about buy it

well if its a 93 it wont be a convertiable because they are the fd's and all hardtop. if its a 92 vert and your looking for speed, idk they are really heavy so. specially if its a n/a. best bang for your buck is a Turbo II with a couple mods they can be deadly quick

thanks guy...that guys rx-7 is nice but me and my bud think he is chargin way too much...im geussing he has a few mods under his hood

whats he want? and most importantly how many miles? i have a rx7 myself. 92 is the last year for the fc and verts are pretty rare so that could be why. just think if it was a year later he could easily charge 13k-15k for it, but then again it would be twin Turbo and make girls want to cream their pants

lol its white i have never been that close to it but he wants 3,500 or close to that...but it looks like he has babyed it for years...i bet he decided it was just colecting dust or need a few extra thousand for another car

when i saw that car i was all nice!!!!! put a kit on it along with all those basic mods and it'll turn some heads

if its in good condition its worth about that, best things about the 92s are they are the last of their generation (86-92 2nd gen fc) so all the glitches have been smoothed out. earlier ones have electrical problems, fuel injector problems, and so on all were fixed in the later years. check the miles though because rotary engines dont have the best of life spans, you can find rebuilds cheap at http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/ body decay is important too

yeah i went and looked at it very very clean inside...yeah i have always been kinda facinated witht he rotary engine

check into getting the mazda rx-7 handbook, probably the best source of information for all three generations of the 7

If youre interested in RX-7 history check these links out. All are diff pages of the same site but not linked together:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/3734/firstgen.html

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/3734/secondgen.html#top

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedway/3734/thirdgen.html#top

I used to own a 1980 RX-7, yeah it had its little problems, but what a fun car to drive.

rotary engines dont last like engines with pistons...

chances are the seals on the rotary are gone/starting to go.

i figured if i was really up to buying it i'd ask to go on a test drive...it's gone atleast once a week so i know he drives it

well i read that the vert of the RX-7 was heavyer...so these things handle real good right...if im wrong correct me

the rx7 is said to be the best handling rwd car. the power numbers are:
first gen:
1978-1985 not the GSL-SE(12A) 90-120 HP 96-105 ft-lbs
1984-1985 GSL-SE (13B) 110-135 hp 117-133 ft-lbs
second gen:
1986-1992 13B 146-160 HP 138-140 ft-lbs
1989-1991 13B Turbo II 182-200 HP 183-196 ft-lbs
third gen:
1993-1995 13B Twin Turbo 255 HP 217 ft-lbs

and just to let you know of swap:
1992-present 20B (triple rotor) 280 HP and 296 ft-lbs torque

told ya they were heavy =D mine handles good, but i have never driven the vert before so i dont know about them. chances are the engine is fine, it will kinda go fast because what happens (for the most part) one of the apex seals inside the rotar will blow, now the peices from this will fly around inside while the rotar spins causes internal damage to the rotar and the other 2 seals. you can find out if the engine is good or not be having a compression test done to the engine. done have the stuff to do a compression test? well thats fine too cause i just what you need to do... remove both lower plugs, have a good strong battery, and have a friend crank while flooring the gas(fuses for spark and fuel removed under engine, 2 closest to engine), and listen for 6 repetitive, even, non-skipping blasts of air,. You can even use your hand in front of the holes to feel each one. There should be one whoosh, per hole, per rotation of the crank. good luck with everything, if you have any more questions feel free to pm me

thanks