Celica Forums Classic Generations 5th Generation Celica Archived Material from Celica net

Just some of the Archives for now

fastman
The Master Mind
Member # 4502

posted July 26, 2002 12:18 PM
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does anyone out there no where i can get a Turbosystem for a 1990 toyota celica gts

[ August 26, 2003, 08:07 PM: Message edited by: fastman ]

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90 celica gts-(Under Construction)

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Posts: 214 | From: OHIO | Registered: Jul 2002 | IP: Logged

NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

posted July 26, 2002 12:53 PM
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1-burien Turbo kits . www.poweredbytoyota.com [poweredbytoyota.com]
2- toyomoto or whatever it's called
3- Rav 4 Turbo kits wiht some modding
4- any 3sgte Turbo kit (with some modding)
5- custom kit using stock 3sgte parts
6- custom kit using your choise of custom parts
Nuke

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1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
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1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "



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Posts: 2453 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001 | IP: Logged

EC Knightrider
P.E.
Member # 1117

posted July 27, 2002 02:36 PM
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nuke...
that rav 4 Turbo kit is throwin me off...what is that???

anyways...

i always wondered...

could you hook up an alltrac Turbo manifold to the 5s and hook up the Turbo that way???

or would that just b stupid????

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The Fever has hit after 4 years!

AIM:EC Knightrider
feel free to check out my albums...Updated Often photoz
and my new one at cardomain



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Posts: 2735 | From: Lebanon, VA & Johnson City, TN (ETSU) | Registered: Sep 2001 | IP: Logged

himura kenshin
st165 gt-four
Member # 1465

posted July 27, 2002 09:57 PM
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ec...i'm not sure but i think it's a 3s-fe Turbo kit and therefore should pit the 5s-fe without too much trouble.
but...i could easily be wrong.

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1988 st165 http://www.cardomain.com/id/squall_ishida

1987 ae86 gts coupe newly acquired.

1986 st161 -waiting to restore...

1990 st184 -for sale still-



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Posts: 2097 | From: ohio | Registered: Oct 2001 | IP: Logged

NuclearHappineS
my nuke is faster than yours
Member # 1641

posted July 28, 2002 03:18 AM
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bingo...
first Turbo kits to ever hit a 5sfe were made for rav4s...

the rav4 needed more torque as an SUV and some companies came out with Turbo kits... eventually one of the kits was adapted to a celica with not much altering ...

I lost all my links but these do exhist.

As far as the 3s parts on the 5s motor...well that's what's under my hood.

Nuke

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1991 Celica GT- for sale - RIP
------------------------
1991 3000 GT vr4
BPU- 15psi... broken lifter i think.

"ALL the power is made in the head, all the power is maintained by tuning ! "



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Posts: 2453 | From: St Louis | Registered: Nov 2001 | IP: Logged

WhyteGTS
Teh BOV goes Wooo Woooo!
Member # 6965

posted August 23, 2003 11:55 PM
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i know this has been lost since July but i feel that it should be a sticky in teh FI forum because lots of people are curious about where and what they car get Turbo kits from.

what you all think about this being a sticky?

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1991 RX7 TurboII



mods and pics go here ----> http://www.nopistons.com/forums/index.php?&act=Garage&CODE=12&CID=258

AIM: WhyteGTS

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Posts: 2740 | From: South Carolina, USA | Registered: Mar 2003 | IP: Logged

Pacman88
Newbie
Member # 8460

posted August 31, 2003 01:47 AM
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I never thought that the Rav 4 would have its own Turbo kit.

[ August 31, 2003, 01:51 AM: Message edited by: Pacman88 ]
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Posts: 14 | From: NorCal | Registered: Aug 2003 | IP: Logged

Sigma
GT Crew
Member # 8701

posted October 03, 2003 09:29 PM
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yeah 3sgte Turbo manifolds bolt straight on to 5sfe engines. only thing is, it depends what Turbo you have and if it will fit the flange. you might need some modding for that.

Here's the plan.. This will be list of links for 3SGTE sites, resoures, upgrades, etc. FAQs ETC... instead of having this thing 80% full of signatures of your contributions.. Personal Message your moderator the link you wish to share. they can then edit this post and add it that way. this post will be locked and not added to by the general public.

Parts:
http://www.fensport.co.uk
http://www.streetimports.com/
http://jarcoinc.com/inventory/
http://jspec.homestead.com/MAINPAGE.html (4ag(z)e)
http://venus-auto.com/

FAQs:
http://www.topshelfracing.com/project/
http://gtfour.supras.org.nz/Technical.htm
http://www.angelfire.com/extreme3/sgte/
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/7177/tech.html

for those of you who wanted the how-to on changing the color of your dash lights, here's a bit of a writeup. the original pictures are in the member's rides forum [ here ].

supplies

testor's transparent red model spray paint. for other colors, you'll have to ask around. i haven't seen testors transparent in any other color. you'll need something that can deal well with a little heat, and not fade.
ten 3v, 3mm, led lights. your color of choice. radioshack has them, but they're cheaper elsewhere and radioshack has the habit of having 4 packages of two, when you need 5. http://www.jameco.com/ is good for small electronic parts. you may need more, or less, leds for your particular setup.
soldering equipment. skill not particularly required. this is the first time i've done it. just read the damn directions, i'm not gonna teach you to solder too.
desoldering equipment. ditto to above.
a little masking tape.
a piece of cardboard.
adhesive. i used a spray adhesive]

gauge bulbs
ok, we'll start with the gauges themselves. i don't have pictures of dash disassembly, but i'm sure there's a writeup of that out there somewhere. if someone has a link, please post it. i'll start assuming you have the gauges out of the vehicle, sitting in front of you.

first off, if you look at the back of the gauge cluster, you see the ass-end of all the bulb holders. there are five or six of the larger bulbs which determine the color of the existing lights, as well as one or two smaller bulbs. they're clear bulbs with green covers. determine which ones you want by pulling them out [twist counter-clockwise 1/4 turn or so, then pull] and looking through hole to see what they light up. you won't need all of the bulbs as the ones with no covers control the warning lights, high-beam indicator, etc. pull the bulbs out of their holders and remove the green covers. i can't recall the exact size of the bulbs, but if you need replacements, the number should be printed somewhere on the sides. there will be mostly larger bulbs with one or two smaller ones.



photo: those are not the bulb holders you'll see in your dash. those are for my auxillary gauges in my a-pillar, which use the same size bulb. the green holders will look exactly like the red ones shown [also came with the auxillary gauges]. i decided to paint these bulbs too so all my reds match.

now, set these aside for now. let's get at the rest of the bulbs we need.

climate control bulbs
these instructions may be slightly different, depending on the layout of your specific climate controls. mine are automatic, with a dial which controls fan speed, rather than buttons.

after you have your dash mostly apart, you should be able to get to the screws which hold in your controls. unscrew and unplug the unit, and remove it. to get it further apart, you'll have to pop all the button covers off from the front. remember which ones go where. there's nothing to remind you upon reinstallation. mine were old and brittle, and i broke a few of the the buttons while popping them out with a very small screwdriver. i'm still working on a way to fix them. be very careful. i couldn't find any way to get them off of there, save for just prying gently until they popped out. you won't have to remove the dials [at least i didn't in my particular setup].

after the buttons are all off, begin to dissasemble the backside. remove all the screws, and you should then be able to remove the circuit boards. remove all the clear plastic light diffusers, and pull all of the smaller bulbs from their holders and covers. you'll need to paint these as well.

my rear defroster unit comes apart seperately, and includes two more bulbs which require paint. all of the buttons, save for the rear defroster use bulbs to light the face, and led lighting to light the indicator light [which comes on when pressed]. the defroster uses bulbs for each. the indicator bulb has a yellow cover to make it appear orange, and match the front defroster indicator. since my front defroster indicator led was dead, i opted to make both red. if you wish to leave both orange, leave the yellow-covered bulb alone.

painting the bulbs
i took all of my bulbs together, and taped them onto the top edge of a piece or carboard using masking tape. i applied tape on the bulb contacts, so just the top of the bulb remained clear to be painted and none of the contacts became gunked up with paint. from there, i simply sprayed 3 coats of testors, letting the bulbs dry between coats. i let them sit for a day before i reinstalled everything. depending on how thickly you apply coats, what kind of paint you're using, and how deep you wish the color to appear, you may need to apply more, or less, coats. trial and error.



photo: front of bulbs, painted.



photo: rear of bulbs, painted. you can see the testors can lid in the very bottom. i used it to prop the cardboard up while drying.
climate control led lights
ok, while you're waiting for bulbs to dry, it's time to get to work on all those pesky leds. firstoff, in your button array within your climate controls, each button has a single green led. they look clear, but they light up green. desolder them all unless you plan to keep the defrosters orange. the orange leds look almost the same as the green ones, so you'll have to look closely, or just remember which button is which. once you have them all desoldered and out of the way, clean the contacts with a cotton swab. i used water alone, but you could probably use a very mild soap. don't skip this part, or you'll have a hell of a time getting the solder to make contact when you put the new lights in. solder hates dirt.

now, simply run the led leads of your new bulbs through the holes in the circuit board, solder in place, and cut the leads. some people like to cut their leads before soldering. whatever works for you.

don't forget the recirculation lights up top, and the a/c button down below.



photo: the led bulbs i used. make sure you get 3mm, as 5mm is too big. i just guessed the voltage on the circuit board, and 3v seems to work fine. even as dull as these ones are, they light up properly in a dash application. any brighter, and they might be a little piercing.



photo: recirculation button leds before replacement.



photo: button array with most of the leds replaced.

automatic window controls
for the real, nitpickers with automatic windows, i also did these with red leds. essentially, you'll be doing the same thing as above. i believe you have to remove the entire door panel to get to the control module out.

once removed, pop off the switches [be careful not to lose any of the parts. there are some very small springs, contacts, and little plastic rods that go together in there. keep everything somewhere safe. plastic baggies work great. upon reinstallation, one of the springs jettisoned a little plastic rod across the room, so now i have to fashion myself a new one with a dremel.



photo: backside of the door controls. after you get everything else apart, you've got to pry off these two small circuit boards. they're glued on, so just pry til they pop off. use the above procedure to remove and reinstall the led lights. be sure to accurately replicate the existig bends in the led leads, so your lights shine in the correct location to light the switches.

next, re-glue the boards back into place. i used a 3m spray adhesive on the black plastic after masking off the correct area. i then quickly unmasked, and pushed the boards firmly into place.



photo: proper alignment of the original bulbs. try as best you can to replicate this with your new leds.

reinstallation
reverse of removal.

and that, kids... is that.

Since I am such a perfectionist and have yet to post my write up on swapping in a v6 into our celicas, it is only fair that I atleast post a parts list at this point for you all to take a gander at.

http://www.engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/junk/tempv6parts.htm

I apologize for not posting directly to this thread but it would take too long to make that list legible due to the inability to use tables. If someone wants to copy and paste that list here and modify it so that it reads appropriately, that would be awesome.

EDIT: I quickly revamped my website in the last two days and have added my swap article. It can be found here:

http://www.engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/projects/swap/index.htm

Lemme know whatcha think. I apologize for the typo's and will be trying to add pictures when I have more time. At this time, all pictures can be found here:

http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4288647943

Hope you enjoy.

This isn't the best documentation of doing a battery relocation as the fact that the camera film I was using wasn't advancing so all the pictures I thought I took I didn't really take at all.

But this is a general guidline of how to do it.

List of parts:

7 meters of 1 gauge welding cable
1 rubber grommet to fit a new hole in the firewall
8" x 1.0" x 1/4" piece of aluminum (for battery hold down)
bicycle tube (epoxied to the underside of the aluminum so it grips the battery)
2ft 1/4" metal rod (to make the battery holddown)
wire fittings (2 of them, one for positive and one for negative)
new battery terminals

I custom made the battery hold down rods and the battery hold down plate, when it could be purchased just as easy.

The whole project costed me $75 Canadian but I didn't have to build a box since I used an Optima battery.

This is the final product.


Extra room in the engine bay for my Intake setup.

The whole thing was more custom fabbing stuff than anything else. If you have any questions feel free to ask.

Basic Intake Facts:

The cone filter frees up the breathing of the car by enabling air to be ingested from all sides (as opposed to a panel filter). More restriction is also freed up by using filter media that flows at a higher rate than a stock filter. BE WARNED: with air filters, you tend to get what you pay for, and cheaper filters may not filter as well as the big name filters.
Intakes are not the only option for more power due to induction. Many brands including Tom's, K&N, and TRD make drop-in replacements for OEM filters. Some consider factory airboxes to be superior due to a lack of exposure to high underhood temperatures.
Intakes are often a first improved part to owners new to modification, due to their relatively low cost and ease of installation. Here's a little bit of information about Intakes for 5th generation (90-93) normally aspirated Celicas. These facts all apply to 5SFE motors, but I believe that the fitment will apply to 4AFE motors as well.
Short Rams are probably the most common type of Intake. They usually consist of a short pipe that may or may not have bends in it with a cone or pod shaped filter on the end.

There is one application-specific Intake for the 5th generation Celica, it is made by WeaponR. It is seen above installed on my 1992 GT coupe. The pipe basically looks like an "L". Cost should be around $150, with filter included. If you go this route, I recommend that you either not get the foam filter or get a different filter because the foam one that WeaponR uses tends to break down quickly in climates with large temperature changes and can be sucked into the engine.



Another option is to get an Intake pipe for a Honda Civic and buy a universal cone filter. The Civic pipe basically looks like an "L" with the angle between the pieces being greater than 90 degrees. This is usually a more cost effective option (many companies make Intakes for Civics). Some modification is required, meaning you have to cut some pipe off the long end and drill a hold for the air Intake sensor. Very easy stuff.

Cold air Intakes are like a short ram Intake, but the pipe extends down to the bottom of the engine compartment or under the car, in an attempt to get the engine colder air. With some cold air Intakes, you will need to worry about hydrolock, or sucking water into your engine. This is very bad because liquids, especially water, do not compress as well as a gas. There are two application specific cold air Intakes on the market for GT and GTS Celicas. The Iceman is now discontinued, but you can still find used versions for sale. The other is made by a Canadian company called Induction Dynamics. You could also build a custom Intake yourself. People have used both PVC and exhaust piping. Exhaust piping will be more expensive, but will look nicer and have better longevity. The decided best size for a normally aspirated Intake is around 2.5, because the stock throttle body is about that size and the Intake will only flow the amount that the throttle body can flow.

Filter Comparison: http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html
Several popular filter types are compared for a Supra application, but the findings should apply to other applications.

[ December 19, 2002, 12:10 PM: Message edited by: ***Hooligan*** ]


I forgot to add this, but a lot of that stuff will apply to 6th generation Celicas as well (at least the part about the Civic tube and custom stuff).

[ December 19, 2002, 12:11 PM: Message edited by: ***Hooligan*** ]


http://88turbo.4gencelica.net
HOW TO BUILD A COLD AIR Intake FOR ANY CELICA

[img] http://www.4gencelica.net/88turbo/Howto's/intakeparts.jpg [/img]
[img] http://www.4gencelica.net/88turbo/Howto's/assembled%20intake.jpg [/img]

- Three 2.5 inch hose couplings
o You can get black rubber couplings from Home Depot or Lowes for around $2-$4 bucks
o Or you can purchase silicone hose couplings like I did for around $4-$12 bucks for one. I got mine for $5 dollars each from http://www.phase2motortrend.com/silcoupstrai.html (the ones I got were identical to the ones that Injen uses for their Intakes)

NOTE: For 1986-1989 Celicas you will need 1 more silicone coupling for the MAF/AFM sensor

- One 180 degrees mandrel bent aluminum pipe, 2.5 inches in diameter
o I purchased mine off JC Whitney for around $30 bucks shipped. , the direct link to the pipes is: http://www.jcwhitney.com/item.jhtml?ITEMID=4068&BQ=jcw2 Get this one: 180 Mandel-bent Aluminized Tubing, (A/B)=24", (C)=5", ID=2-3/8", OD=2-1/2"

- Six 2.5 inch hose clamps, seven 2.5" hose clamps for 1986-1989 Celicas.
o I got mine from Home Depot for 78 cents a piece. You can find them at AutoZone or Advance Auto Parts or any car part stores.

- One air Intake with a 2.5 inch inlet
o Usually people get the K&N filter because its reusable and its quality. I am using a cheap one that I bought for $10 bucks. The K&N are usually $30-$40 bucks.

NOTE: For 86-89 Celicas you will need to buy a Adapter to bolt a Cone style filter to your MAF/AFM sensor. You can find the Filter & adapter on ebay for about $25

Tools needed

- screwdrivers, both phillip and flathead
- ratchet set to take off bolts and stuff (all you need is a 10 mm socket, because all the bolts are 10 mm)
- well, any tools you think you might need is fine
- A metal cutting saw to cut the aluminum pipe

Approximate time to build and install

- 45 minutes for me to cut up the pipes. I had to do this by a hand saw, so it was very exhausting.
- 20 minutes to take off the old Intake box and that stupid black box in the left fender.
- 20 minutes to drill the hole for the Oxygen sensor. (not needed for 86-89 Celica) This took me forever because I didnt have a drill bit big enough, I kept on having to work to make it bigger.
- 20-30 minutes to install the Intake into the car.

Step One

- Take off your old Intake box and this big black box on the drivers side fender of your car.
o Taking the old Intake box was the easy part, because all I did was loosen all the clamps and unscrew the bolts inside the box under the filter. And unscrew all the other bolts that were holding the Intake box together. After taking off the Intake box, you have to take off the box in the side of the fender. There were a total of three bolts that holds this black box in the fender together. Youll see where it is, you just gotta figure how to unbolt them. The size of the bolt is 10 mm, so use a racket set to do it. After taking that off||..you have to literally jerk the thing as hard as you can for it to come off.

Step Two

- Cutting the pipes as needed.
o First you want to take the U-shape mandrel bent pipe and cut it in half. Half as in right where the curve is, not the other way around. Then you take one half of the pipe and cut that half way down. The other half of the pipe, you only cut about 18 inches off of it. Remember to look at my pictures to see how I cut it. You have to measure the lengths you need, youll have to cut the pipe three times to make it fit. The reason for three hose couplings is because youll have to connect three pipes.
o You should have a total of four separate pipes after you finish cutting them. You only need three pipes though, and those are:
The short curved pipe
The long curved pipe
The small straight pipe
You DONT need the long curved pipe

Step Three
(90-99 Celicas only)
- Drill a hole for the O2 sensor.
o What I did was take a drill and drilled a hold the same diameter as the O2. The hole I drill was perfect but the sensor wobbles too much when I put it in, so I just put a few pieces of masking tape around the O2 sensor and stuffed it back in there. It doesnt wobble anymore. =)

Step Four

- Putting the pipes together (installing your Cold Air Intake in).
o Here is the final part, which is just simply putting the pipes together and stuffing it in your car. First, put one hose coupling over the Intake thing and connect your small curved pipe with the hole for the O2 sensor on it. Put the O2 sensor in before connecting the pipe (Remember to clamp the hose and pipes together with the hose clamps after each connection. Tighten it as good as you can, so they dont fall off or get loose). Second, you want to connect the small straight pipe with the small curved pipe. When doing this, make sure the small straight pipe is away and under the battery so you can connect the last piece to it. Third, connect the long curved pipe to the small straight pipe. The long curved pipe will be coming from the fender and up to the small straight pipe. When doing this, I jacked up my car and got under it to send it from the bottom up. I had another person to help me out doing this part. Lastly, connect your AFM/MAF sensor to the end of the long curved pipe(86-89 only), then attach the Intake filter to the end of the AFM/MAF sensor. You have to reconnect your splash guard, so little rain can get into the Intake filter.

o *NOTE* It might be a good idea to buy an AEM Intake bypass valve for cheap and safe insurance from getting your car hydro locked. The bypass valve usually costs around $30 bucks.

I just edited it to try to get the IMG tags to work. Weird.
-***Hooligan***

[ December 19, 2002, 12:16 PM: Message edited by: ***Hooligan*** ]

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87 Celica GT w/Carlos Sainz ST185 3S-GTE
87 Supra Turbo w/40k JDM engine
85 Toyota Corolla 5door w/20valve silvertop (turbo soon)

Webmaster of 4gcelica.net

halflife52

i have a question

i bought a 92-95 civic Intake off of ebay, i was just sizing it up to see if it would fit without cutting it, but when i tried to connect the hose that connects to the Intake manifold, the hose is too small

so, the hole on my Intake is small, while the hole for the Intake manifold is big, what should i do? i dont think theres a hose that has one end smaller than the other, is there?

btw, im a newb and this might not even be a problem to some people

1992 Toyota Celica ST @ Cardomain.com

So are you saying the Intake pipe is smaller than the throttle body?

...or is the PCV hose the wrong size?

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a question, it may sound really dumb, but I just wanted to make sure. When you do your own CAI, in order to smog the car you have to put the stock airbox back in, right?
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"smog"?

sorry im not sure what you mean...

ive never seen anyone put their box back in

cai doesnt need a box...
it wont do anything mate

but smog regs

i dont think they are that supid.. or have i got it all arse about.. maybe im too stupid to work this one out

[ December 23, 2002, 10:27 PM: Message edited by: **Doc** ]

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--Doc--




i went to midas, they cut the pipe for free, but they said they didnt have a drill

do you think i can do without my temp sensor? because i have no idea how im gonna drill, i have a hand drill, but its too weak and the biggest bit i have is 1/4 and the faq says 6/8

i heard that you can go without your temp sensor

one last thing, the guy at midas cut it waaaaaay to short and it looks really really small, its pretty much just the bend :| will this effect my car in anyway?

[ December 24, 2002, 03:09 AM: Message edited by: st0n3y ]

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hmm, today i installed the Intake without the temp sensor, the hose that plugs from the pipe to the engine is kinda tight so i just barely got it on there

anyways, it might just be cause im paranoid, but i smelled gas or something after i drove around for like 3 secs, so i stopped and put the stock on back in

is it because i didnt put in the temp sensor? the hose needs to be put on all the way? or is it because im just super paranoid?

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doc, America has stupid ass emissions laws, requiring us to get a smog check every few years, to see if our cars polute too much. I know that the CAI has no box, I was just wondering if you had to put your stock Intake back in to make it smog legal.
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Yeah its stupid we have so many people with breathing problems and natural wonders of the United States are deteriorating. The Intake shouldn't affect your smog check. I mean, you still have a filter, its still getting air.. I think id be more worried about exhaust modifications than Intake.

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yea, it shouldnt affect it, but I just wanna make sure. I need a concrete answer from someone who knows for sure. I dont wanna go through the trouble of making a CAI if im gonna have to take it out and put it back in every time I smog the mother fucker. Merry Christmas everyone.
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intake has nothing to do with smog. the Intake doesn't produce emissions.

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also, i may have found out that the Induction Dynamics CAI may not be ready yet. I think it's still in R&D.

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Originally posted by Barrett91ST:
yea, it shouldnt affect it, but I just wanna make sure. I need a concrete answer from someone who knows for sure. I dont wanna go through the trouble of making a CAI if im gonna have to take it out and put it back in every time I smog the mother fucker. Merry Christmas everyone.
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You're in Cali, the most regulated State in the union. You can count on them giving you a hassle if you go in for emissions inspections like that. But dude, it's only once every year or 2 -- it's not that much work. So what. All us all-trac guys swap our midpipes back in for test so we can show we have catalytic converters.


Originally posted by halflife52:
intake has nothing to do with smog. the Intake doesn't produce emissions.
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Oh really? If you buy (or create) a CAI that doesn't reconnect the pcv line as the stock Intake pipe did, then you're dumping those gasses to atmosphere.

IMO, keep the pcv line connected always, but definitely use a catch can mid-line to filter out the gunk. You can even route that line to your cold air box (if you've made one), rather than into the side of the Intake pipe, if you're sure that a side port on the pipe may cause too much turbulence.


hey i have my Intake on my car right now and i have nothing connected to the 02 senser i just attached a bunch of breathers. do i need something attached to the o2 senser i'm not runnin nos and if i do need this o2 senser hooked up where is it cuase i haven't got a clue
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Originally posted by Tartan:

quote:
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Originally posted by halflife52:
intake has nothing to do with smog. the Intake doesn't produce emissions.
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Oh really? If you buy (or create) a CAI that doesn't reconnect the pcv line as the stock Intake pipe did, then you're dumping those gasses to atmosphere.

IMO, keep the pcv line connected always, but definitely use a catch can mid-line to filter out the gunk. You can even route that line to your cold air box (if you've made one), rather than into the side of the Intake pipe, if you're sure that a side port on the pipe may cause too much turbulence.
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that's different. that's the PVC, not the Intake itself that is producing the emissions. the Intake takes in air, it doesn't produce harmful gases. when the air is mixed with fuel in the engine and combusted, then gases develop. you don't see smog coming out of an Intake, do you? no, it comes out of the exhaust, because Intakes take in (relatively) clean air, hence the name "intake."

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www.garageband.com/artist/BAD [garageband.com]
Black As Day website

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to be a true total 5th gen Intake, something must be added to pertain to the 3sgte

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Originally posted by halflife52:
that's different. that's the PVC, not the Intake itself that is producing the emissions. the Intake takes in air, it doesn't produce harmful gases. when the air is mixed with fuel in the engine and combusted, then gases develop. you don't see smog coming out of an Intake, do you? no, it comes out of the exhaust, because Intakes take in (relatively) clean air, hence the name "intake."
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Yes, I understand quite well. My point was, we were on the subject of passing emissions inspections, and I wanted to warm people about certain Intake setups that do not retain use of the pcv line.

I'm quite familure with Toyota engines, I own: (2) 3sgte; (1) 3sge; (1) 20r; (1) 22rte; (1) 3vze; (1) 5vzfe-supercharged. But thanks for the education.

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quote:
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Originally posted by Tartan:
But thanks for the education.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

no problem i was just pointing out that the Intake itself isn't producing emissions.

--------------------



actually, it does have to do with emissions, because your ECU dumps more gas into the fuel mixture to make up for the air, therefore producing more exhaust. SO i think that a cold air Intake that isnt carb certified, will make your car not pass smog.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Originally posted by halflife52:
also, i may have found out that the Induction Dynamics CAI may not be ready yet. I think it's still in R&D.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

True, should be set for around Spring it seems,

Peace,
TRD Terror

--------------------


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by st0n3y:
i went to midas, they cut the pipe for free, but they said they didnt have a drill

do you think i can do without my temp sensor? because i have no idea how im gonna drill, i have a hand drill, but its too weak and the biggest bit i have is 1/4 and the faq says 6/8

i heard that you can go without your temp sensor

one last thing, the guy at midas cut it waaaaaay to short and it looks really really small, its pretty much just the bend :| will this effect my car in anyway?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Use the stock OEM gromit from the top of your airbox, drill a hole that makes the diamiter of the inside ridge of the gromit, then insert it onto your new Intake, and inser your temp sensor... the temp sensor is a VITAL part of your Intake setup...

Peace,
TRD Terror

--------------------


quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Originally posted by Barrett91ST:
actually, it does have to do with emissions, because your ECU dumps more gas into the fuel mixture to make up for the air, therefore producing more exhaust. SO i think that a cold air Intake that isnt carb certified, will make your car not pass smog.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

From my understanding, the emissions test takes a per unit mesurment of different substance quantity in that unit...

If you have 100 feathers, and the test is to see if you have what part of white and what part of black feathers, and the test just takes 5feathers, out of the 100, you can have a box of 500feathers, they test still only takes 5 feathers...

the Intake if anything will give you a more full combustion and burn off any raw gas etc and make a cleaner burn...

Peace,
TRD Terror

CS Bumper INSTall page

Parts needed.

52021-20210 Reinforcement S/a
52119-20929 CS Bumper
53104-20030 Grill
53103-20030 Grill
53102-20030 Grill
53101-20450 Grill
52029-20020 Reinforcement #2(i used the factory top reinforcement


CS Bumper


Reinforcement bar 1

Cs time!!!

alright, here is the procedure as i had to go through it!
remember to leave your lights up before you unhook your battery!!!

u need 2 metric sockets, a 10mm and a 17mm

A couple of screwdrivers
and i had to use a cutting blade(any sharp knive or razor should work!

1) Start by removing the side marker lights and the bumper lights,
then remove the carbonfiber trim piece that goes across the bottom.

2)After you remove that, you should be able to see the bolts to the upper support brace, remove the ones that are holding it to the rest of the car.
After removing all the other bolts that surround the stock bumper, you will need to somehow remove the screws that
are holding the bumper to the reinforcement bar! This is where i had to use a blade as i couldn't remove them any other way.

3) after you have done this, their is 1 bolt on both sides that run and connect the reinforcement bar to the frame(this is where you need the 17mm socket,)But to get the bolt out, i had to remove the headlight cases(the lil black thing around the headlights)

4) After you remove the brace, the entire bumper should come off, (after removing the foglights(if you have any ))

PRe-assembly
5) Now, install the CS reinforment bar, should be pretty explainatory.

6) next take your top reinforcement bar and remove it from the stock bumper(along with the back piece as you will need it when bolting the bar to the bumper.

7) install the bumper, get it lined correctly, Tighten all the bolts

8) reinstall the headlight cases

9) reinstall the carbonfiber piece

10) reinstall your lights!

Drive!!

Hope this helps, im sure some have had it easier and yet some still a tougher job that i had, it took me 3 hours to complete this task! Hopefully it wont take you as long!!!

Finished, just not painted yet!!

storing for the winter? yea.. maybe i posted this one is a little too late.. but still. now i do this one entirely wrong.. but still.

i like to go start my car once and a while. i let it run for about 15-20 minutes while i do other things, like carry in wood for the woodstove.. or shovel snow..

now my dealer told me that starting it once a week was good for it. but after reading this, i'm not sure i agree with him. but again.. i wont be storing it for a long period of time. maybe only 4 months. and as soon as i take it out, another oil change and a fill up of some good high oct.

right now i had a new oil change, and all fluids topped up. but i let the gas go down to under a quater tank.. because i don't agree with putting in fuel stabalizers.. plus the gas station is within walking distance from my house.. heheh

anyway.. here is the info i found. if you have anything to add, please do.

this is a topic that doesn't get talked about often, although most of us who live in harsh climates do put our cars away for the season.

--------------------

First, take your car on a long drive and warm it up good. Then go someplace and have the oil and filter changed. Have them air all your tires at 35 psi, top off all your fluids, then go fill up the fuel tank with premium fuel. Stop by a lawn mower shop on the way home and buy enough fuel stabilizer to treat the fuel in your tank.

Take it home, park the car in the garage, roll up the windows tight, lock the car, disconnect the battery and DONT HAVE ANYONE TOUCH THE CAR, START THE CAR, DRIVE THE CAR until you come home and this is valid for up to five years.

If your Uncle Henry insists Im wrong and he should be allowed to go over to your house, start and run your car for awhile to "lube it up" then ask him to take it for a long spin. Unless the car is driven at highway speeds at 50 mph or more, you will add water to the oil. And oil and water equal sludge. So as the engine cools off, moisture inside the engine condenses to water and falls into the oil. Unless you get the oil temperature over 212 Fahrenheit for 30 minutes or so, you will add more water to the oil when the engine is shut off and cools down. If the engine oil gets over 212, then the water is boiled out of the oil. That wont happen if you run or drive the car for 10 minutes.

-LoKi

my car spends most of the time in the garage because i cant drive yet.

...i usually start it every couple days and let it run for 5-10 minutes while i listen to my radio or something...is this bad?? it gets out for a drive at least once a week though.

...maybe i should find a winter beater...

--------------------
as long as you get up to and keep it at Normal Operating Temperature for a few minutes, it'll be fine. Just wait until the cooling fans turn on. That's when you know.

--------------------
ok, so i stored my car for the winter. I should have gotten a fresh oil change B4 i stored it??
i don't even have any rims on it anymore.
is that gonna be bad??
--------------------
well.. its probably a good idea to put fresh fluids in it before you store it.. but if you think about it...

winter only lasts like 4 months for you guys down south.. for us 'lucky canadians' we get about 6 months of winter.. ha!

so i really can't see it being a problem, as long as its stored somewhere dry.

the biggest thing to worry about is keeping it up off of the ground, and away from moisture that can get it from underneath.

i knew some guys who used to store their rides for the winter by putting a tarp over it in the driveway.. or parking it on the lawn with a tarp on it.. just to find that in the spring, it would be all rusted underneath and the tires would be half rotted off .. hahah!

i'd get a complete fluid change as soon as you put her back on the road though

--------------------
Ill get the fluid change as soon as i break her out.
I keep mine in my garage covered and sitting on 2 layers of carpet.

--------------------
my car is currently in the back yard w/ a tarp over it...as for the rust on the bottom..i figure that ill get a lot less w/ it just sitting there than if i were to drive and get slush all over it and salt on it to eat everything away...


you have to remember though.. moving parts are much less likey to accumulate rust...

--------------------
mines in the driveway without a tarp or anything. But will only be there for about 1-2 months then it goes away to get the body kit on and a paintjob. All i do for now is put the battery back in every 2 weeks and start it and let it run for about 20 minutes


I stored my 1990 celica in January 2001 and just resurected it in December 2001 (so 11 months in all). I did disconnect the battery terminal. I didn't warm it up at all!! When i stored it, i knew i needed new tires...so i didn't bother moving the car not to have flat spots (on the tires anywhere). I gave it a nice wash and wax/polish before i stored it...I rolled up all the windows, but i left my sunroof on tilt. Had i had good tires, i would have jacked it up (not to get tireflat spots). NO STABILIZERS, just a full tank of high octane gas. The car was stored in my closed garage, under a car cover. I actually put my rear seats down, and put all my garage sale stuff and my trd kit there for storage..so i could keep my garage clean. Before resurrection, I changed the brake fluid, p/s fluid, there was little oil (5sf3 mystery??, you all know about it) so put in enuf oil to last my engine till an oil change. The brakes were really squeeky...nothing that a one day's drive didn't fix. I just bought new tires, got my a/c fixed (recall helped! PHEW), I've still to take it for a wash...but its still shiney..for that January wash!! However, my vents smell a bid moldy! i think i'll just have to park in the houston summers outside to get rid of that. Hope that help you all who plan to store your car(s).

Edit: I forgot to metion that I needed a new battery after my car's resurrection. Good thing I had prorated warranty from my previous purchase!

Each person should give a few of their favorite links (no repeats, please) and a short sentence or so as to why they are important.

Here are mine:

Toyota Celica Online -Best body kit guide, good message board and tech articles.
SBCelicaGT's Site -Instructions on battery relocation and gauge cluster removal.
Henry Vo's Site -Very good site for general information/specs and for 5th generation aftermarket parts

Feel free to make any contributions, but I may edit them if there are duplicate links or the links aren't applicable.

Some of these are 5th generation specific, but others are very general.
Logged



www.cyberspaceauto.com [cyberspaceauto.com]

www.toysport.com [toysport.com]

www.erebuni.net [erebuni.net] ( i think thats it)

and whichever company has the best price on 3s-gte motors

cyberspace and toysport cover a lot of groud as far as Performance mods go...espicially if you have the 3s-gte

NGK Wires
All-Trac comming soon

My Celica isn't an addiction, neither is speed or street racing, it's just a way of life!
The only replacement for displacement is technology!



TWM Performance - Because it's the only place that makes aftermarket short shifters for our lovely 5th gens

Burien Toyota Performance - Cause they make one of the few Turbo kits for the 5S-FE

Weapon-R - Only manufacturer of aftermarket short ram Intake systems for the 5th gen Celica.

***Hooligan*** - Nice info about Intakes

Custom Turn Signals - Shows you how to make custom clear turn signals

Custom Intake - Instructions on how to make your own short ram Intake.

NOPI - Sell lots of aftermarket stuff for 5th gen Celica's.

ProCarParts - Sells clear bumper lights and clear corner lights.


--------------------


List of all Toyota Engines and specs
Listing of all the engines toyota produced, their horsepower and specs.

Celica A GO GO!!
Contains a large gallery of different kind of 4th-5th Generation Celicas, if you are planning on making your ride look like a specific design.

How stuff works!
Self explanatory, should help out on a lot of newbie questions.

Celica GT4
Lists all GT4 models, and explains the differences between them, especially for the people who don't know the difference from the ST185 and the ST185RC

BigJohn's celica info page
Although it seemingly may be usually on 4th gens, the 5th gen engines share similiarities.

Suspension Upgrading
Posted by Henry?? or somebody - Great info on suspension

California Vehicle Code
I don't have pages for the rest of the states, but if each person found one for their own state, and we had a list of them it would help out.



alltrac.net
http://www.geocities.com/weclo/toyIntake
how to make short-ram.
in school...post more later

AC recall>> http://celica.net/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=31;t=004161

dont forget how to take out the a/c control panel...claytons 3s-gte swap FAQ.


I just noticed this thread. So much for paying attention for the stickies!

[Engine Oil Filters] - A very good page reviewing various oil filters.

roman


--------------------


the air filter review>>> http://www.gtrowner.com/induction.html

the 3s-gte swap info>> http://pages.sbcglobal.net/celica1/3sgteswap.htm

and digitalroo's site...imported Toyota parts. http://www.digitalroo.com/
--------------------


www.cyberauto.com [cyberauto.com] <- great car part site

www.board.mr2.faq [board.mr2.faq] (or something like that)

www.alltrac.net [alltrac.net]

www.car-parts.com [car-parts.com] <- millions of parts in junkyards all over country.


Gonna pimp my own site again:

Frequently Asked Questions:
http://engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/car/celicafaq.htm

Hyper-REV catalogue
http://engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/car/HyperREV/index.htm

Battery Relocating
http://engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/car/battery/index.htm

Gauge Cluster Removal
http://engr.ucsb.edu/~warped/car/dash/index.htm

Other Forums:

www.alltrac.net [alltrac.net]
www.toyotacelicaweb.com [toyotacelicaweb.com]
http://forums.baycelicas.org/

Parts:

http://www.angelfire.com/sk3/chirhotuning/ (A friends site, tell him Adrian sent ya. )
http://www.twmperformance.com/
http://www.gtautosports.com/
http://www.takakaira.com/
http://www.tdi-plc.com/toyota_celica.html
http://www.bozzperformance.com/
http://www.alamomotorsports.com/
http://www.huxracing.com/
http://cyberauto.com/
http://www.poweraxel.com/
http://turbo-performance.com/
http://www.performanceartmotorsports.com/
http://www.car-part.com/

Engine & Transmission Sellers:

http://www.streetimports.com/engines/Toyota/3sgte.htm
http://thenew.gamesbbs.com/%7Edmoore/jdm_importers.htm
http://www.infinitemotorsports.net/
http://www.nissmo.com/
http://www.remanufactured.com/Toyota_%20Engines.htm
http://www.neishlinmotors.com/
http://www.japanese-auto.com/main.html
http://www.recycler.com/com/gspeedcorp/
http://www.tpautomotive.com/vShopping/toyota.htm
http://www.soshinusa.com/
http://www.karspeed.com/
http://www.nic-intl.com/
http://www.partsboy.com/toyotaparts.htm
http://www.drivetrain.com/TRD.html

Body kits for 5th gen:
http://pages.sbcglobal.net/celica/bodykit5.htm

Misc:

Tire size calculator:
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

more links on my FAQ page but im too lazy to post more.


--------------------


www.webcamshafts.com [webcamshafts.com] What webcamsinc moved to for our vast(2 or 3) cam upgrade choices.
www.turbofast.com.au [turbofast.com.au] for Turbo calculators and flow maps
www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.net [miata.net] tire calculator
www.gtrowner.com/induction.html [gtrowner.com] air filter comparison
www.alltrac.net [alltrac.net] the alltrac site
www.rbracing-rsr.com/runnertorquecalc.html [rbracing-rsr.com] for calculating peak torque with given runner length and cross section
www.victorylibrary.com/mopar/rod-tech-c.htm [victorylibrary.com] explains rod ratios in full
HME Performance Aaron's website for the header that fits our car

I think that is all for now, hope all these work.

Nate


i quickly browsed through the previous posts and im pretty sure i didnt see this one..

A Pillar Gauge Pod
http://www.gaugepods.com/celica.html


--------------------


the eastwood company they sell all kinds of tools, paints, molding kits, etc. basically anything you want so you can customize your vehicle.


--------------------


- Vehicle Brake Information - Michael Romano is a mechanical engineer who was a brake engineer working at Continental-Teves (trademark: Ate Brakes) and Ford. You can download what he has on the site in .doc (MS Word) or .pdf (Adobe Acrobat) format for later reference on your computer.
- Team scR Technical Articles
- StopTech Technical Articles
- Honda-Tech.com Brake Upgrade discussion - One of the posters in this thread is a championship-winning Honda Challenge road racer. It's safe to say he knows what he's talking about.


--------------------

**92 Celica GT 5SFE**

Yes. And my car idles and accelerates smoother. For the last few months my car has felt like its gonna die. 200 miles on a tank of gas (w/o beating on it...like 170 w/ beating on it). I definitly got gas mileage back.

And you know when i get on empty again, i know I could have had a few more miles on it because when you unscrew the bottom bolt for the fuel filter gas leaks out slowly for like 10 minutes. from the look of the new filter, at full, it'd be about half a can of soda, if not a little bit more.

Tools you need:
6" ajustable wrench


a 10MM socket wrench to undo the bolts that hold on the brackets


a 17MM wrench to undo the top bolt of the fuel filter


and pliers to move the little metal clamps off the hoses


Step 1...
Open up your gas cap. Have to relive the pressure in your tank.

Disconnect the battery, take air filter assembly out, then take the top two hoses off the charcoal canister. After you get the top two off, use the 10MM socket wrench thing and get the two bolts(10mm - Shortest screws) that are holding the bracket onto the car. After you get it free, use the pliers to unclamp the hose that goes from the bottom of the canister to the clamp. Your fuel filter should now be free and just sit it somewhere. nothing leaks out of this one.

Step 2...fuel filter

Then use the 17MM wrench and take off the top bolt off the fuel filter. After you get that out use a rag or towel and put it around the hose that went to the top because fuel will drip out of it. Then take the 6" ajustable wrench and then while using a flashlight, ajust it to the size of the bottom bolt on the filter. It's visible from the side so its not difficult. put a rag under where you will be working because gas will leak from it. A steady flow of gas untill the fuel filter empties out. then just work it. Its got a lot of threading so just keep going at it. When you get it loose (you'll know from the nut at the bottom), use your 10MM socket and undo the two bolts(10mm - Semi long) that are holding the bracket of the fuel filter onto the car. Don't be afraid to get down and dirty and use the hands because its much easier than trying to tool it the whole time. Don't bother undoing the bolt that clamps the bracket around the fuel filter till you get it out. It's in an awkward spot. after you undo the two bolts that hold the bracket to the car, finish the threading with your hands and pull the filter it out. Keep the bottom on a rag because it will leak fuel. Presto, your 75% done now.

Now undo the bolt(10mm - Long Screw) that clamps the old filter onto the bracket but dont slip the new one in yet.

Step 3...the install

Take the new Fuel filter and screw it onto the bottom bolt with your hands. It might not seem like it'll go on because the bottom bolt that is "a pain in the ass" to take off is ajustable, it slides up and down. So pull that thing up and screw the new filter on. Then take the 6" ajustable wrench and make sure its tight by holding the wrench onto the screw and then turning it as tight as you can with your hand. Then take the empty bracket for the fuel filter and slide it around the fuel filter. Tighten the bracket around the fuel filter at this point(10mm - Long screw). Then take the two bolts(10mm - Semi long) and bolt the bracket back onto the car. After you get everything in tight, using another ajustable, tighten the bottom bolt again while using another wrench to hold the filter still (there's a spot near the top to use another wrench).

Now you just gotta put the fuel line back on top and then using that 17MM wrench bolt the top fuel line back on. Cha-Ching!

Charcoal canister is really easy...just clamp the bottom hose back on, then plug the two top hoses on and bolt it back onto the car. Put everything else back together, and pump the gas a little before starting her back up. Let it idle for a few minutes and then vrooom, your off.

Hope I was helpful.

ELECTRIC Turbo

fans are not designed for creating positive pressure! they can only put out 5 to 6 in H20 (.18-.22psi). they are designed to move air from one location to another not to pressurize it.

okay lets go with a 2001 celica gts for comparison.

specs:
Displacement: 1.8 liters (1,796 cc)
Bore x Stroke: 82.0 mm x 85.0 mm
Compression ratio: 11.5:1
Horsepower: 180 hp @ 7,600 rpm
Torque: 130 lb.-ft. @ 6,800 rpm

okay now that we have the specs of the motor. lets see how much air it consumes.

v = (pi/4)*(bore)^2*(stroke)*(Ncylce)*(# Cylinders)
v = 3.14/4*(3.228in)^2*(3.346in)*(7600/2)*(4)
v = 416369in^3/min(1ft^3/1728ft^3)
v = 241.0 carbon fiberm

mind you this is 100% ve. so say at a more reasonable 90% (vvti helps increase this number thus creating more power) so that leaves us with:

v = 241.0cfm * 0.9
v = 216.9 carbon fiberm actual

now i am sure you are thinking that the fan is forcing the extra carbon fiberm into the motor right? wrong. the air will actually just pass through the blades in a reverse direction thus providing no benefit to power. but this is the thermodynamic method of finding the power a fan needs to move and slightly compress air (between 0.18-.22psi). but lets say it will magically create 5 psi boost for a "30hp" gain.

Fan air power = w * Ht
Fan air power = (216.9cfm)*(5psi)*(144in^3/1ft^2)(1hp/33000ftlb/min)
Fan air power = 4.7 Hp

okay and a 4.7hp = 3.5kw of power.
divide that by 13 volts (average operating battery voltage). now that leaves you with 270 amps of power. so now it leaves you to wonder if you would need a 270 amp inline fuse for this monster fan. i have yet to see anything with a 270 amp fuse in a car. mind you this is with 100% efficient motor as well. so it would actually have to consume more power than that. but oh wait...the factory rating on most alternators are around 80-90 amps (i am just going with an approx value). oh something seems wrong...seems this electric Turbo is consuming 3 times as much as the alternator can put out. hmm...odd.

so long story short an electric Turbo just won't create more power than what they consume to run them.

RAM AIR

Operating Conditions
temperature = Tair = 20C = 293K
atm. pressure = Pair = 14.7PSIA
Cpair = 1005J/KgK
K = 1.4
the Cpair and K are constants for air.

Case 1 @ 100Kmh (62Mph) = 27.78m/s

Calculating temperature of the ram air

Tramair = ((Vcar^2/2gc)/cp) + Tair
Tramair = (((27.78m/s)^2/2(1kgm/Ns^2)/1005J/kg) + 293K
Tramair = 293.4K

the temperature increased by 0.4K or 0.4C.

Pram = Pair (Tram/Tair)^(k/(k-1))
Pram = 14.7PSIA (293.4K/293K)^(1.4/(1.4-1))
Pram = 14.75PSIA - 14.7PSIA
Pram = 0.05PSIG (gauge pressure)

so as you can see driving 100kmh will only have a gain of 0.05 psi! now lets try for 200kmh.

Case 2 @ 200Kmh (124Mph) = 55.5m/s

Calculating temperature of the ram air

Tramair = ((Vcar^2/2gc)/cp) + Tair
Tramair = (((55.5m/s)^2/2(1kgm/Ns^2)/1005J/kg) + 293K
Tramair = 294.5K

the temperature increased by 1.5K or 1.5C.

Pram = Pair (Tram/Tair)^(k/(k-1))
Pram = 14.7PSIA (294.5K/293K)^(1.4/(1.4-1))
Pram = 14.97PSIA - 14.7PSIA
Pram = 0.27PSIG (gauge pressure)

so by seeing how the velocity of the car increases the ram air effect...it is barely anything! so i would conclude that ram air doesn't benefit by actually bulding up pressure but by the fact it is getting a cool atmosphere air.

email me at [email]catchya@shaw[/email] if you would like a ram air calculator program that you can use to figure out the ram air effect that you can enter in your own values.

--------------------
Conrad Andres

First you connect the black end to a ground, a bolt somewhere on the engine bay.

Second you connect the red end to a positive, you and clamp it on the lead in for the Alternator.

Third you will need hook the clip from the timing light around the #1 spark plug wire.

Once this is done with the engine running, you will need to jump the diagnostic terminals in your diagnostic box, TE1 and E1.

Once these terminals are jumped, your check engine light will blink and you are ready to check your timing. Point the gun down towards the crank, each time the gun flashes you should be able to see the mark on the crank going by. It should correspond with a number on the timing belt casing.

Base Timing for our cars is 10 degree's TDC. So just make sure the mark on the crank is lining up with the #10 on the timing belt casing. If its not, lightly unscrew the two bolts around the distributor and turn it until the mark on the crank lines up with the #10. Then tighten back down the distributor and remove the timing light and jumper between the terminals in the diagnostic box.

You car is now in time.

Clayton

tools: voltmeter and pin

test with engine cold

connect the positive lead to the backprobed connector from the O2 sensor, and connect the negative lead to ground

turn car on, observe voltage. it should be a steady reading of something between 350-450 mV

once the vehicle is warmed up and enters closed loop, the voltage from the O2 should vary above and below 450 mV. you can also tell if you are running a tad rich or lean (approx.) with some meters

thats your basic O2 sensor check

hey guys... its the time of year for cars to be having problems. its just murphy's law i suppose. harsher weather for most of us, and those of us with older cars are having trouble sleeping at night (thank god my 2k celica is in the garage sleeping.. but my civic is a 92... not quite old.. but getting there.. ).

so here is some info about exhaust smokes that i grabbed off the net. if you have anything you'd like to add, or any personal experiences you'd like to relate, post em here.

i've noticed lately a sweet smell from the exhaust of my civic. but i can't tell if its smoking or not. well.. i guess its not. because smoke doesn't dissapate like steam does from the exhaust pipe in the -9 deg.C weather.. brrrr!!

but it got me thinking.. in the event anyone does notice smoke in the pipe.. its never a good sign..

Black smoke is raw gasoline burning. A rich condition can be the cause by a heavy or mis adjusted float, a choke stuck shut, a bad oxygen sensor, a bad map sensor, a bad fuel pressure regulator, a plugged up air filter or a bad injector. Typically, if you only get black smoke first thing in the morning, it has to do with the choke or the fuel enrichment portion of your fuel injection system. If you get black smoke all the time, get it fixed NOW. If you dont, you run the risk of wiping out the catalytic convertor and doubling your repair bill.

Blue smoke is oil burning. The tailpipe will either smoke all the time or just once, first thing in the morning. If you get blue smoke all the time, that is a sign of impeding doom. That is the first sign of the beginning of the end. Broken rings, bad pistons, damaged cylinder walls, all high dollar items.

On the other hand, if all you get is a puff or two first thing in the morning and never again throughout the day, then your problem is probably bad value guides or value guide seals. It will cost between $350-800 to replace the seals, $750-1,500 to replace the guides and seals. I always tell my customers, wait until you begin to see other symptoms of this oil usage. Wait until you start fouling plugs, wait until the oil consumption is greater than one quart every 1,000 miles. And never assume that seals alone will totally fix this problem, if the engine has 100k miles plus.

Grey smoke can really be black or blue. You can usually tell which is it by the smell or by matching other symptoms you have to the color of the smoke is easier. Others will say blue is blue and all other is really grey to black and I would agree.

White smoke is either the transmission shift modulator is bad and allowing the engine to suck and burn transmission fluid (repair costs under $100) or its really, really bad. White smoke could also be coolant or antifreeze that is either leaking, or being forced into the combustion chambers and being burned. The exhaust will look wet and have a sweet smell to it. A bad head gasket (75% of the time), a broken head (15% of the time) or a broken cylinder wall (10% of the time) will be the reason your engine is burning coolant or antifreeze. The repairs start at $400 and go to $4,000.

-LoKi