Celica Forums General Discussion Exterior WEIRD SOUND

I had been in the dealirship more time that i can remeber because of this sound. I get it mostly when I have been awhile with the a/c on. Its like to metals or like something is not tigh right...have anyone hear of this before?????????????????????

you gotta describe the sound better

^ gawd. you didn't understand! i thought it was pretty obvious

j/k

yeh, describe the sound better. and likely your dealer should be able to help the best

More description would help... and where is the noise coming from and what not.

I dont really know how to describe it. The car has to be really warm, i mean to hear it the car has to be running for at least 15min and it ONLY appears with the ac on. Then when I start downshifting or if I keepthe engine running on the same rev like in 3500 the sound starts. The sound gos like a vibrating metal. I have been running with that sound for like 3 months now. And it hasnt done any damege to the engine, it is just that f********cking sound, sometimes I think that aybe its a heatshield. But i dont really know and everytime that I take it to the delership the guy always says like i dont hear nothing. And it is there so bad. Like I told you a like a vibrating metal, like somthing is kind of loose and only whenthe ac is on. I dont know how to explain it better. I oyu guys cant help me with that description, well i guess i just thank you anyways for trying

I have that exact same problem... I had to threaten to talk to the corporate office of Toyota USA and complain before they agreed that they could hear the problem, it a hissing sound, like metal on metal, or loose heatshield, lower RPM's, AC is on, and downshifting... It fucking sucks... They've have my car for the last week. It's a transmission problem man. He's replacing every part of mine...

Get back to me...

jjarvis316@cox.net

I have the same problem also...


It makes the same sound when I engine brake in like 1-3 gear. Sounds like a grinding sound.

But when I have the AC on for a while, it makes what seems to be a grinding/rattling sound, not only when I engine brake (like it usually does), but whenever I accelerate! Seems to go away once I shift it into 6th gear, regardless of what speed I'm going. I've even shifted to 5th going about 35, and stomping on the gas to see if it was a bent valve or something, but the sound persists. Even happens when I turn the AC off after it has been on for a while.

I'm thinking that the sound is coming from the tranny, but that wouldn't make any sense because I don't believe that the AC has any effect on the transmission.

At least I'm not alone in this. I thought my engine was messed up.


EDIT: Just a thought, but could the AC Compressor be causing the transmission to heat up more than it's supposed to?

never Celica I've ever driven/ridden in makes this sound...

I think it's just normal operating sounds.

But it only used to make this noise when I engine braked.

Now it does it almost all of the time when the AC has been on for a while.

man you guys make me feel like i want to go out and check my car for that sound..i only have 30k left until i'm out of the powertrain warranty..if anyone could get an update on this subject later to find out what was causing it, it would be great..

Mine does it when I engine brake, or if I just lay off the gas and coast with the revs up

I have no idea what it is, but mines always done it, as has the 2002 GT my dad has owned since new.

It makes that sound with the AC on?

If so, then I guess it's no big deal since a TSB hasn't been released concerning it.

both with it on and with it off.

its like a whirring metallic sound

Hmmm, I'm thinking that it has something to do with the transmission and how the AC changes where the engine idles. That might explain why it makes that noise with the AC on.

the A/C shouldn't change where the engine idles, mines 800 + - 50 RPM w/ or w/o A/C on.

If your AC is functioning properly, then your car should idle UP when the AC is turned on. This is triggered in the ECM or ECU, whichever you prefer.

I on the other hand have a broken AC switch. By broken, I mean that it does not turn the AC compressor on. So what I did to fix it is run a wire from the blower relay (ground) to the magnetic clutch relay (ground), so whenever the blower is turned on, the AC kicks on via the magnetic clutch relay. Sucks cause whenever the blower is on, the AC has to be on, but it sure does beat paying Toyota to fix it.


Anyways, this is what I was trying to get at...

Since I bypasses the ECU (ECM), at idle when the AC is on, the car idles almost dangerously low. I'd say around 300-400 RPM's. It often sputters, but I have never had it stall out on me before.

The IDLE UP function is supposed to keep your car from idleing too low when the AC is on, hence, that's why your idle is supposed to increase when you turn the AC on.

Either way, your idle is either going to increase with the AC on (what it's supposed to do), or decrease like mine does (what it's NOT supposed to do).


But next time, check your RPM's at idle while toggling the AC on and off and see if you get a slight change in RPM's. If you don't, then it could be the fact that your IDLE UP function perfectly negates the parasitic effect that the AC Compressor puts on your engine when it turns on.

But for the most part, it should idle up at least 100 or so RPM's. Nothing too drastic.

Hope that makes at least a little sense.

mine idles up BRIEFLY for like a second, then goes back to normal.

you don't need to pay toyota to fix your AC control, just buy a new board ($60) and install it yourself.

You can fix the dead interior lights at this point, too.

The dead lights as in the two bulbs that screw into the board? Those still don't work and it's pissing me off. I think I will have to buy a new board, but I tested the wires as specified in the shop manuals, and all seems to be fine, so I'm not so sure that my AC problem lies in the board, but it most likely does.

I think the problem with the board is a bad ground somewhere, cause my AC light indicator is missing a ground. It didn't blow out cause when I apply a ground to one of the prongs on the bulb, it lights up. I could hardwire it, but I have no idea in hell where to apply the ground to. I'm thinking that one of those five or so connectors that comes from the bottom of the board lost its ground, but there is no wiring diagram in the shop manuals for that, so I may just have to buy a new board.

Fuck, might as well. If it's only $60.

Diablo...

I know it's the heater control circuit, but what's the heater control panel right above it?

NOTE: They are numbers 43 & 42 respectively.

Sorry, this picture was meant to be posted in the post right above...

The dead lights can be fixed by using a tapping clip on the two white wires coming from the cig lighter.

if you want to replace the board, buy the AC control circuit, it's two pieces and it plugs into the old location using a clip and undoing the dash, the drivers side kick panel and reaching in there with a tiny screw driver.

#43 is the board, #42 is the piece in front that holds the dials for the temp/direction of the air flow

I dont think that it is the trasmission because like 2 months ago they change the whole trasmission cu my girlfrinend misshift. And the sound never went away

I fixed the radio backlights using that fix. Should it have fixed those two bulbs also?