N/A my GT and get into the low 13s? I know this is probably very easy for a GTS. I will have $3600 soon, but if I were to get a Turbo, I wouldn't be able to build up the engine.
My car is gunna be 10x faster than yours...haha... I'm gunna buy like 10 of those speedchips! I figure if 1 gets me 20hp then 10 will get me 200hp!
it would not be easy. if you want to go NA start off by getting the 11:1 pistons from MWR, PFC, and i/h/p/e lots of weight reduction and drag radials. that right there will not put you close to low 13's though
was....5speed with i/h/e 15.41 @ 89.30mph 2.282 60'
N/A my GT and get into the low 13s? I know this is probably very easy for a GTS. I will have $3600 soon, but if I were to get a Turbo, I wouldn't be able to build up the engine.
why not?
- you could still upgrade internals, bore it out, decrease compression, etc
N/A my GT and get into the low 13s? I know this is probably very easy for a GTS. I will have $3600 soon, but if I were to get a Turbo, I wouldn't be able to build up the engine.
why not?
- you could still upgrade internals, bore it out, decrease compression, etc
I won't have enough money to do all that along with the Turbo.
My car is gunna be 10x faster than yours...haha... I'm gunna buy like 10 of those speedchips! I figure if 1 gets me 20hp then 10 will get me 200hp!
ah, I see... then head over to MWR and get the following:
- big bore kit @ 11.0:1 compression ratio (Wiseco pistons included) - crower rods - valves - valve springs - ARP studs for exhaust manifold, cylinder head, and mains
you could do without the last three if you're going N/A but they couldn't hurt. Match these with a PowerFC and the standard bolt-ons and you could see 13's
Thanks. I was planning on getting unorthodox pullies.
also, be careful with unorthodox - properly installed, they give pretty good gains over AEM but I'd stick to the latter considering all the horror stories I've heard...
I have the wiseco 11:1 internals, crower rods, MWR valves, and valve springs, EIP tuning headgasket, an AEM CAI, and magnaflow exhaust...its much faster than a stock N/A GT, but its not a low 13 sec car...I've never drag raced, but have been in 13 sec cars (low 13's, high 12's), and my car ain't it ...if you want to get there, you'll need to be bored, with the higher comp internals, and apexi pfc, fidanza flywheel (lightest out right now), I/E/H...no pullies (high rpms...the unorthodox pullies don't make enough difference, but will shake your bearings to crap because of engine speed, and the mechanic probably not doing things super perfect on the install), and the high duration cams from cat-cams (JRPonline.com is the distributor...but they are expensive as all hell)...take the 3600, and get the stafford fabrications Turbo...you'll be fast as hell, and still have a reliable engine, and I guarantee you'll be addicted to the Turbo once it on your car
and sultan...yeah he does want the ARP hardware...you should also head over to EIP tuning, and get a standard compression copper headgasket...properly built N/A's are built to be revved and beaten on...I built mine to beat on, and not have to worry about decreased engine life
and sultan...yeah he does want the ARP hardware...you should also head over to EIP tuning, and get a standard compression copper headgasket...properly built N/A's are built to be revved and beaten on...I built mine to beat on, and not have to worry about decreased engine life
...you've just mentioned another reason to stay N/A and build up internals instead of going Turbo - greater engine durability and less maintenance -
- also, not sure if you've read about it, but I heard that the EIP headgasket actually blew faster than stock on a stage2 c2gas Turbo kit during tuning -
hrmmmm...that's interesting...good looking out ...I'll have to read up on that...I've not had any hiccups with my engine at all (which is nice)...I don't run boost either tho...who knows...I just wanted to be able to beat on it and still get 200,000 miles out of it before I had to replace the engine or rebuild again. Also, like you said...NA is a lot less maintenance, and a whole lot less machinery to go wrong...I'll read up and check into the head gasket thing here soon, and if you're right then I'll go back to stock when I switch the cams in about 9 months...I'm also eyeballing an oil cooler...can't be too careful
^^^ awesome bro - have you considered a Zex wet kit? It's instant speed and very reliable with a window switch - although some don't like the stigma involved in its use...
I always thought that to N/A was very hard on the engine? I knew it was less maintenance, but what times (1/4) would I expect to see if I got the SF kit and ran it at 6 psi?
My car is gunna be 10x faster than yours...haha... I'm gunna buy like 10 of those speedchips! I figure if 1 gets me 20hp then 10 will get me 200hp!
nah, no juice for me...I got in trouble with my last ride...N/A all the way for me...part of the reason I went with the higher compression is to make sure I stayed away from it
I always thought that to N/A was very hard on the engine? I knew it was less maintenance, but what times (1/4) would I expect to see if I got the SF kit and ran it at 6 psi?
...Naturally Aspirated is how the engine comes from the factory (no boost)...when you add Turbo to an engine you also add heat (more power means more heat), and more pressure inside the cylinder walls...REvving high all the time on an engine that isn't built for it while being N/a just wears the crap out of the pistons, and valvetrain...and you have a higher possibility of mis-shifting, and blowing the thing all to hell...while being Turbo is even worse...all that boost puts pressure on the cylinder walls, and if you boost too much, you can wind out your tranny, spin a rod bearing or throw a piston through the bottom of your oil pan...plus it cooks oil more, you have to worry about fuel pressure, air fuel ratio, ignition timing and all sorts of other crap...I'd juts rather not worry about it, and just drive
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