Celica Forums General Discussion General How to drive a Brand New M/T GT

what i mean is ... dun drive over 80km/h and dun exceed 3k rpm and shit ~ please post PROFESSIONAL/OFFICAL/CORRECT ways to drive a new 2005 GT with 5spd m/t ~ thx

Drive the crap out of it to "break it in". If something goes wrong... that's what warranties are for

^eh, don't do that...

Do 5000 miles without reving it over 3000rpm. No hard acceleration. Always use full synthetic. The break-in period can determine how long your motor & tranny last you.

i wouldn't use full synthetic just yet for a new car...

yeah - I've heard full synthetic after it's broken in...

Full synthetic oil doesnt allow enough friction to allow proper breaking, use it after

I donno, it sounds like a load to me. Synthetic is not that much different that regular oil. I'd rather use synth & just have a longer break in period if that was true.

^^ not a load, just common knowledge, ask around

drive it like you stole it

Yah, its also common knowledge that you can't mix synthetic & regular oil & that you should not switch from one to the other. That's bull too.

Synthetic oil is the same as regular, its just has better ability to take cold & heat & will break down slower. That's no reason to think that it should not be used during the break-in period of an engine.

^^ it's not bull.

However, it doesn't pertain to our cars. After like, 80K miles, an American car is pretty much a pile of shit (like when it started) however the crude in regular oil is holding the seals on the engine together, changing to synthetic could cause them to be cleared out, and cause a leak.

As for synthetics during break in, don't use it, because it's TOO effective of a lubricant.

Use Toyota oil for 1,000 miles, don't drive/rev a constant speed, never rev over 4K, don't drive over 65 (Only 1K miles)

Change the oil at 3K miles to Mobil 1, use a K&N/TRD/Mobil filter.

That'll break it in

"Another big misconception, says Goss, is that new engines require a break-in period with conventional oil, and then drivers can switch to a synthetic. In fact, today's engine technology does not require this break-in period."

http://www.exxonmobil.com/Corporate/Newsroom/Newsreleases/xom_nr_050104_1.asp

It doesn't quite answer the question, but its close.

just break it in before you start abusing it...lol

Of course Mobil is going to tell you that, they want to sell you oil afterall

fuck that, that seems a little excessive. No way in hell i'd wait that long.

so ... how does 1k mile under 3k rev and 80km/h sound ? and screw the oil and use regular all along ...

sounds good to me.

i didnt really dog the shit outta mine, but i know i revved way past 3k when i first got my celi. hopefully im ok though.

The first day I got my celica I ran it all the way to the rev limiter.
I have built many Performance engines and I always break them in this way. You drive the thing it is going to be driven. If something is going to break it will break right off the bat. there is no secret number for break in time. also do not keep the Rpms at a constant. run the car at dirrent rpms. I have built 4 diffent engines in my life all Performance engines and this is how i did it. I had no problems what so ever. i have had my celica gts for 3 months now and I hit lift till redline everytime i drive it. SO PUT THAT IN YOUR PIPE AND SMOKE IT.

i drove my car for 3,000 miles very carefully. never going over 3.5km and of course never racing it.

baby it, thats all i have to say.

Three whole months?

Im suprised, coming from a fellow 2 stroker like yourself. Back in high school I used to race my 2 polaris pro 785's in region 6 here in Michigan and have see and had my fair share of syn. mixture accidents. Ive done many top-end rebuilds on friends and fellow racers boats who have mix'd the two. Have you ever seen a piston and rings from a mistake like that? It looks like someone blasted it w. glass beed and the scoring is outa this world

LOL, 3 whole months! Lets see how it runs in 3 years.

i think 1000 miles is fine to break it in, atleast thats wat my dealership told me when i bought mine brand new.

i have my own little thiory drive it hard from the day you get it. You have to train the car if you baby it from the start and drive it hard afterwords the car will not be used to it and break. drive it from the start the way you will drive it all the time. You just got to train her

If someone can please post any source of data that explains exactly what "breaking-in" the engine accomplishes, I'd be happy. I don't know what everyone thinks magically changes after the car has 1000k on it?

Of course, you shouldn't go crazy with the car until the engine is warm... but that's the same at 100 miles as at 100,000.

Well, 'Doo could probably answer this one best, but among other things the break-in coats the surfaces with a fine film of lubricant, which is always present, even when "dry" (i.e. the oil has drained to the crankcase). This film protects the engine on startup until the oil pump comes to life, as well as potentially under a heavy load (i.e. maximum acceleration). Also, the rings and valves have to get "seated" (conformed to the cylinder walls). I'm not too keen on the "seating" process, and I don't think its that much of a big deal anymore, with the tighter engine tolerances which have evolved over time. Anyway, that's about all I know about it. Help us all and do a web search on the topic.

The days of required break in periods are pretty much done. The accuracy & precision of today's engineering, especially in a Toyota, is far beyond that.

Oil is distributed throughout the motor in less than 30 seconds, so I don't think that has anything to do with it.

What used to happen is all metal parts in a motor had sharp edges from manufacturing. Those sharp edges needed to be worn off slowly so that they would not scrape craters in other metal parts. Old organic head & other gaskets took time to cure before you would want to put them to the test. No machined parts were perfect back then, just like brake pads, the piston rings wore to conform with the cylinder walls.

Now days, all parts are machined to very precise standards, there is no left over metal or imperfections. Gaskets are either cylicone or metalic, so they work fine right away. In short, a break in period is not necessary any more. Its more of a precaution that anything.