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How to change your brake pads and rotors with OEM sized replacements.
By RicePowered


Tools Needed:
Lug Nut Wrench
Torque Wrench (optional, I used my own judgement)
Breaker Bar (optional, I used a pipe on the end of the socket wrench)
Socket Wrench
14 mm socket
17 mm socket
17 mm open-ended wrench
Medium Point Flat Head Screwdriver
Brake Parts Cleaner/Degreaser
Simply Green Automotive Degreaser
Jack
Jack Stand
New Brake Pads
New Brake Rotors
Wire Bristle Brush (I didn't have a wire so I used a strong bristle brush)
3 ft piece of Wire


Steps:

1) Loose lugs nuts

2) Jack up the car and support it with the jacks stands.

3) Remove lug nuts and wheel.

4) Wipe everything down with a rag.




5) Using the 14 mm socket and the 17 mm open-ended loosen the bottom bolt holding the caliper on. Next remove the top bolt the same way. With the bottom bolt still it use the wire to tie the caliper into a stationary position. I used the spring. Now remove the bottom bolt and reposition the caliper out of the way. DO NOT put any strain on the brake lines.

6)Remove both brake pads, front and back, by simply pulling straight out. This should be very easy. The front pad will have to be angled slightly to clear it out of the way of the pad holder.




7) Disassemble the brake pads by pulling off the two sets of shims and using the screw driver pop the clip off on the flat side. DO NOT loose the clip. Keep track of the way the shims are positioned on the pad and the order in which they must be installed. Black shim on bottom, silver shim on top. Clean everything with the brake parts cleaner.




8) Next using the 17 mm socket and breaker bar (or pipe) loosen the top and bottom bolts holding the pad holder on.

9) Remove the top bolt first and then the bottom bolt using a socket wrench. These bolts are tighten to 35 ft/lbs. While removing these bolts make sure you hold onto the bar so that is doesn't fall.




10) If the rotor is stuck use a hammer and slightly bang it around the edges to remove it. If it does not still come off you will need to get a dead blow hammer and bang it off.

11) With everything off use the simply green to clean everything.




12) Now would be a good time to paint the caliper and other pieces. I used 1200 degree engine enamel in aluminum color.

13) Reattach the shims to the new brake pads in the correct order. Also put the clip on. These all simply press onto the pad with slight force. Remember the pads go on opposite sides, so do not put the clip on both pads on the same side. The clip goes opposite of one another.




14) Put the new rotor on, remember R for drivers right and visa-versa unless you have uni-directional rotors.

15) Reinstall the pad holder bar using the 17 mm bolts and hand tighten.

16) Press the pads back in for both sides front and back.

17) Using the torque wrench, or your properly calibrated hands, tighten the 17 mm bolts back to spec.




18) Put the top bolt back in the caliper so that the caliper is facing up.

19) Using the hammer handle press the piston in. If the piston will not move you have to bleed the brake lines slightly. This is done by loosening the small bleeder plug. DO NOT remove the plug all the way or you will have a brake fluid mess.

20) Next loosen the top bolt back up and rotate the caliper into position.



21) Hand tighten the top bolt back up and then put the bottom bolt in.

22) Using the 14 mm socket and 17 mm open-eneded again tighten the caliper back into position.

23) Reinstall the wheel centers if you have them.




24) Turn the the rotors to check to clearance.

25) Reinstall the lug nuts and wheel.

26) Lower the car the repeat other side.

27) Admire your work.






Freshly installed.



After Brake Pad Setting.





IMPORTANT

1) After installing new brake pads, start car and pump brake pedal 10 - 15 times.
2) Make 6 to 10 stops from 30 - 35 mph applying moderate brake pressure.
3) Make an additional 2 to 3 stops from 40 - 45 mph applying heavy brake pressure.
4) DO NOT DRAG BRAKES i.e. Coasting with brakes applied.
5) Allow 15 minutes for brakes to cool down.


The first time to try to stop you will have no braking force.
Avoid excessive, high speed braking, and emergency braking until the pads are fully seated. This will take about 200 miles.

I hate to say this as you did a very nice job with the how-to guide, but I would add-Don't jack a car up on gravel when doing maintenance!

I wanted to thank you for the great pictures. I was able to do my own brakes by using this. They are Brembo with Axxis Ultimate Pads!

All of us do not have the luxury of a garage or concrete floor on which to jack up our cars when we work on them. Gravel isn't great but do able if you place a board or piece of plywood under the jack to give it a good foundation to jack on as shown in the pictures.

A few extra pieces of plywood under the jack stands to stabilize and give them a good foundation would be nice.

Does anyone know what the minimum thickness for brake rotors in? Im thinking about swapping mine out instead of machining my old ones since i found a set slotted and drilled for a hundred but I am curious if I can salvage my old ones as spares.