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Rating: 5

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Hey there. I’d like to start with who i am so you guys know approximately what i know about cars: i am a russian ase certified tech with a5, a6, a7 and g1, specialize in toyota, lexus and mercedes cars. Work in tiresplus (good dinero there) as a lead tech and part time in an independent shop so it isn’t as boring lol. One more thing: i never worked on any celica besides my own and only engine i’m aware of problems of rebuild are 2.4 engines that are in many toyota vehicles, so yeah, my knowledge about the 2zzge is very limited to the basics i know about engines.

So, since i’m not a diy’er but a full time tech, why am i even asking? Here’s the answer.

So, it all started around 3rd june, when i was leaving work after a full tank of gas and i heard quiet knocks between 3500 and 4500 rpm. Thought it’s either bad gas giving me detonation, maybe i’ve mistakenly put 87, we’re all human after all lol, or maybe ngk laser iridium spark plugs with about 20k miles on them started to give up. Measured compression, which turned out to be around 165 all over the engine, didn’t like the way plugs looked and replaced them, cus commercial discounts lol and called it a day.

Next chapter starts on 23rd august when i blew my engine. Loud knocking sound, that didn’t promise anything good. Upon disassembly found out that the #4 rod bearing has transformed into metal shavings in my oil pan, crank at that point started to look like an egg, oval. After i got all the parts and compared them, i noticed that the old oil pump drive gear wasn’t able to spin at all with my fingers, while the new one was wobbling so my guess is that the oil (even though i have used synthetic only) was maintaining pressure good enough for the sensor to leave the oil lamp off but wasn’t enough to actually lubricate the further prts of engine causing oil starvation. So, after i’ve found out what exactly is going on i gave the engine for a rebuild to machine shop, they have checked the block, stated it’s ok, rebuild the head with unknown parts and same time i started to terrorize the dealer with phone calls - got new crank, 1 new piston and 1 new rod, main, rod and thrust bearings, gaskets all over the engine, new lift bolts again, just to be safe, even thought they had like 12k miles on them, they’re about 2$ a pair lol, new chain guides, new tensioner BUT and old chain since that was already way too much money and i was on vacation. So there i am, 2k$ dollar later, assembling the engine with brand new parts from dealer, reupholstering the seats (thanks to Florida sun for that), i finally have the car done. At the beginning it had a lot of vibration on idle and had an unsteady idle, sometimes going down to 650 rpm, the car started right up and was driving perfectly. So i babied it for 500 miles, throttle half way, 3000 rpm shifts, no highway driving, 60mph max with only one exception around 430 miles - i was late and i had to use highway and drove 90mph (my manager calls me crazy russian cab driver, but yes, i do drive fast and hit lift almost every time). Then, after 500 miles i started shifting up to 5000 rpm, not every time, but about 20% of shifts and still no highway driving and the car had all the hp and torque i was expecting, so the engine was driving perfectly fine, idle became stable, vibration went away etc. So, yesterday a bright idea came to my head - i’ve done 680 miles, why don’t i hit lift? So, 1 gear and ~7800 rpm later i shift to 2nd and hear knocks. I was close to home, a couple traffic lights away, and what i’ve noticed: on idle sound is almost not heard, resonates with camshafts, not crankshaft, the hp and torque first went 10% down, then about 60% down, after i came home and parked, popped the hood and it felt smth is hitting the valve cover, so i took it off and saw no visual damage on valve cvr, cams, rockers etc. Had my friend crank the engine with valve cvr off, had a steady and strong oil stream to valve cover cam plumbing tube, cams aren’t broken for sure, timing looked good, so skipping a tooth is off my probable cause list. Also, i have oil under the car, although everything was sealed with factory gaskets and level is at medium, was at full at first fill. Oil looks quite dirty in the engine, would say about 2500 miles, not 680.

So, given that history and information, and, hopefully, knowledge of these engines, what can you guys say? What am i looking at? I’ll only be able to look at the car on Monday and i’m trying to figure out what’s wrong to see how much i’m looking at. I’ve got some really bad things going on in life, i’ve already spent those 2k on rebuild very unexpectedly, i have to buy tickets to go to my country for 2-4 weeks in early december and this second engine failure is just making me come one step closer to hanging myself. I need to decide whether to rebuild the engine or buy a jdm engine w/trans (mine grinds in 3rd and 4th) for 2500$ and buy a 500$ pos to drive while i’m saving money for the jdm assy. Junking the car is not an option as i’ve put waaay to much time money and effort in it: painted, rebuild interior, clutch, wheels & rims etc etc etc, i’ve spent around 8k$ including car price of 2400$. There are also pics of the car before i painted it and before i put me dream rims with tires.

Please guys, tell me what did i miss while rebuilding and what approximately am i looking at with this failure. Any input appreciated ❤️
47F3FD1A-FD58-4C3B-8377-ED5F7F727E71.jpeg BCDBCD5F-0068-47F2-B11C-54AD8B6E59DD.jpeg 3B678767-E575-475E-808B-2553739E9065.jpeg D1EDBB5C-454A-4C9B-AA53-BAFD4134DE92.jpeg DDDA3A20-BB60-4E0D-BFA7-D2E8E9BEE27F.jpeg 6D57808E-887D-4314-BB1F-D4464DF060D7.jpeg F3D20E7C-10EC-44B4-B3F9-343F824BE493.jpeg 7F421A70-F337-481D-9023-AF5A283A185D.jpeg A92FDF42-3933-4C11-A5D6-B2FC38D83DF3.jpeg 4BDFCAB7-7BFC-4F45-B219-787201C5AB5C.jpeg

Last edited by Yuraska94; Oct 12, 2018 8:14pm.

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Update: didn’t hang myself up yet, took the head out, didn’t see much, pistons have no slack, crank is moving perfectly, gave cylinder head back to machine shop to warantee check, waiting on results, bought a new cyl head gasket, bolts and washers from dealer. Decided i’m gonna baby it until i get enough money to swap a jdm w/trans since mine grinds in 3rd and 4th or will get a monkeywrenchracing used engine for 2k$. But this engine gotta go.

I didn’t take any particular photos of head removal, just posted to instagram stories.
42B8DDBE-548A-4D2A-B660-ED3A4370C981.jpeg CBCEE7B7-AB3B-4CCE-97AD-8A6702957D8B.jpeg

Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
New Member
2000 Toyota Celica GT-S
Joined: Oct 2018
Posts: 3
Replaced engine.
528AE60B-FB79-4301-AA5A-2F6E52FF52CF.jpeg C24FEE5C-0667-4DF1-87A7-8FA18F0B05CB.jpeg

Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 326
Likes: 2
Member
Member
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 326
Likes: 2
Your commitment to your car is commendable my guy


2001 Toyota Celica GT-S 6 speed (sold 12/19)
2002 Toyota Celica GT auto (totaled 5/18)

Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
Member
2003 Toyota Celica TRD GT
Member
2003 Toyota Celica TRD GT
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 15
Likes: 1
I've put 2 engines in my '03 GT so far and ready for #3...
Keep at 'er bro!!!

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ronmcfeaters
ronmcfeaters
2002 Toyota Celica GT
Pennsylvania

Posts: 30
Joined: August 2003
Thank you.: My dad for helping me out with the engine, and Gary's Custom Painting in PA for the bodykit!
Random: "Everytime you masturbate, God kills a kitten"
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