2000-03 Toyota Celica GTS Stock Weight - 2500lbs Stock Wheel Weight - 22lbs each/without tires The 2000-03 Toyota Celica's weigh approximately 2500lbs, dividing by the horsepower of 180, we get about 13lbs/hp. So roughly every 13 lbs removed from the cars weight will add an effective 1 hp. Gas weighs about 8lbs/gal so 16 gallons in the tank weighs 128lbs. If you have only 1 gallon in the tank, its almost a 7 horsepower equivalent difference. A passenger can make even a bigger difference, not to mention the drivers weight. You can easily remove things like the spare tire and jack, the floor mats, the rear seats, interior panels and anything else.
Listed below are some easily removable items: 1. Passenger Seat (37lbs) - Removing the passenger seat is a very easy and effective way to give your Celica a small boost in power. The nice thing is that the seat is only held in place by 4 bolts.
2. Rear Seat (29lbs) - The rear seat is a little more complicated to remove than the passenger seat. When removing just remember where everything goes and it should be easy to put back in place whenever needed.
3. Rear Seat Cushion (10lbs) - The rear cushion should be removed at the same time as the rear seat.
4. Floor Mats/Front and Rear (6lbs) - This has to be the easiest weight reduction available for the Celica owner.
5. Tire Floor Cover (3lbs) - The tire floor cover is right underneath the rear hatch carpeting.
6. Spare Tire and Jack (32lbs) - Another easily removable item.
Total Easy Weight Removal = 117lbs or about a 9hp increase. Intermediate Skill Weight Reductions
The weight reductions included below can even prove more effective than some of the reductions included above. However, once you start removing these items you are taking away from the cars overall appearance and in some cases its more predominent ammenities.
7. Air Conditioning (40lbs) - Removing the air conditioning will net you a reduction of about 40lbs. Be sure to remove everything from the engine as well as behind the dash. Should be completed by the experienced only.
8. Front Hood (50lbs) - Replacing the Front Hood with a lightweight Fiberglass or carbon fiber hood is a great way to remove some weight around the front end of the car. Total weight reduction will be close to 50lbs or greater depending on the aftermarket hood you choose.. If you dont intend on replacing the entire fron hood you could also remove the sound dampener on the inside of the hood. This should help in cooling your engine a little.
9. Stock Wheels (22lbs each/replacement weight from 11lbs each) - Replacing the wheels is a must for anyone seriously interested in increasing there cars Performance. The stock wheels are quite heavy and can be replaced with a variety of aftermarket models. We would suggest searching for lightweight wheels. Replacing your wheels with lightweight wheels will dramatically increase your cars acceleration. We suggest not going over 17 inches if maximum Performance is what you desire to achieve.
10. Front Drivers Seat (40lbs/replacement weight from 14lbs) - The front drivers seat on the Celica can easily be replaced with a much lighter alternative A lightweight racing seat will save you considerable weight and will also be effective once you have added more horsepower to your car.
Total Intermediate Weight Removal = up to 188lbs or a 14+hp increase. More Weight Reduction Some of the things listed below can also be removed or replaced with lighter alternatives than stock. Stock Flywheel - Can be replaced with lightweight aluminum flywheels or machined down in excess of just 13lbs.
Stock Steering Wheel - Can be replaced with lighter Performance steering wheel with no airbag.
Passenger Airbag Removal - Can save some extra weight as well. (Not recommended for normal driving)
Interior Panels - Both the drivers side and passenger side front door panels as well as the rear panels can be removed to save in excess of over 40lbs.
Stock Speakers - With a weight of over 2 pounds a piece these can also be easily removed.
Rear Hatch Cover - This can simply be removed whenever needed. Weight is close to 6 lbs.
Replace Stock Exhaust - The stock Celica exhaust weighs considerably more than some of the aluminum aftermarket exhausts. We suggest going with the TRD Exhaust.
Wiper Motors - Although they are generally needed under almost all driving conditions they CAN be removed if need be although we do not personally recommend it.
Carpet - Removing the carpet as well as the carpet lining underneath will reduce the cars overall weight by close to 40lbs. Removing excess wiring and bolts and brackets will also net you a reduction of close to 10lbs.
This is good info, thanks Iced, i saw it already, but at least now its easy to get to rather then forgetting where it was and having to find it, now its right here available, so i know what to remove when i need to on nights that i go racing, i agree, should be a sticky!!
Fudge The World! Die Hard, Die Fast, Die Strong & Live Life to its Fullest
This is good info, thanks Iced, i saw it already, but at least now its easy to get to rather then forgetting where it was and having to find it, now its right here available, so i know what to remove when i need to on nights that i go racing, i agree, should be a sticky!!
Remeber this when trying to out run the Police "There Isnt a car on earth that can out run the ole Motorola!"
also I'd like to point out some of your figures are inconsistent with what we got when we weighed ours. also I'd like to add we weighed more then one car.
the hood of a celica is NOT 50 lbs it's actually less than 30.
believe me there are a lot of things that are easily removed and very heavy you didnt mention.
nice info for most noobs though!
also I wouldnt suggest anyon attempt removing their rear speakers cause they are riveted in Yes they can be removed but outting them back in will take a lil effort.
I have not weighed my car yet like I should but using 2500 lbs as a base my car would weigh around 2450 w/ me in it. I weigh about 185. also I have my A/C in, door panels, speakers. all that fun stuff.
oh i dont have a "drag" celica i just liked the info i found on that site (I didn't write this) and thought others would appreciate it,do you play on getting nitrous? you could probably run 13's then
oh i dont have a "drag" celica i just liked the info i found on that site (I didn't write this) and thought others would appreciate it,do you play on getting nitrous? you could probably run 13's then
I run 13's now with just the Intake with my PFC and a header I plan to hit mid 13's
oh i dont have a "drag" celica i just liked the info i found on that site (I didn't write this) and thought others would appreciate it,do you play on getting nitrous? you could probably run 13's then
I run 13's now with just the Intake with my PFC and a header I plan to hit mid 13's
don't get me wrong though, i know for a fact that weight reductions improve the Performance of your car but i didn't think that it would be as significant as 13lbs = 1hp gain
what i think... the rated wheel horsepower for a gts is i think 166hp and the flywheel is rated at 180hp so if you lightened the car by 208 lbs (at 13/hp) = to 16 hp gain then you would have more then the flywheel at your wheels (182/180)which doesn't make sense to me can someone please help me out here...
i think that you would just be freeing up some lost horse power and getting better throttle response... but 13lbs/per 1hp just sounds crazy
don't get me wrong though, i know for a fact that weight reductions improve the Performance of your car but i didn't think that it would be as significant as 13lbs = 1hp gain
what i think... the rated wheel horsepower for a gts is i think 166hp and the flywheel is rated at 180hp so if you lightened the car by 208 lbs (at 13/hp) = to 16 hp gain then you would have more then the flywheel at your wheels (182/180)which doesn't make sense to me can someone please help me out here...
i think that you would just be freeing up some lost horse power and getting better throttle response... but 13lbs/per 1hp just sounds crazy
ummm... you are definetly missing the point there... i dont know how to explain...my eng sucks...someone help explain...
first: we dono wut lost do the weight affect the power. second: 13lb = 1hp is just a calculation out of the numbers...it does not really exist. third: you are confusing urself with the logic.
don't get me wrong though, i know for a fact that weight reductions improve the Performance of your car but i didn't think that it would be as significant as 13lbs = 1hp gain
what i think... the rated wheel horsepower for a gts is i think 166hp and the flywheel is rated at 180hp so if you lightened the car by 208 lbs (at 13/hp) = to 16 hp gain then you would have more then the flywheel at your wheels (182/180)which doesn't make sense to me can someone please help me out here...
i think that you would just be freeing up some lost horse power and getting better throttle response... but 13lbs/per 1hp just sounds crazy
ummm... you are definetly missing the point there... i dont know how to explain...my eng sucks...someone help explain...
first: we dono wut lost do the weight affect the power. second: 13lb = 1hp is just a calculation out of the numbers...it does not really exist. third: you are confusing urself with the logic.
no that's just my point 13lb = 1hp does not really exist
i like the thread and it is very informative but the 13lb / 1 hp is very miss leading to some people out there because you arent getting "actual" power gains, you can dyno before and after and you'll get the same reading but if you run the quarter you times will be faster after the reduction
Carpet 40lbs? Having a giraffe or what? Not that theres much carpet in there anyway, I don't think axminsters finest would weight that much. Thats heavier than the hood.
Maybe Toyota should bring out a stripped out Celica with a carbon fibre body, and carbon fibre interior.
thats the best point to start from. Good luck getting from power to force, you are going to need it.
it has to be newton meters, but then you need to know the diameter of the tire, and the surface contact point with the road, plus coeffiecient of friction of both surfaces...
bah.
To have played and laughed with enthusiasm and sung with exultation To know even one life has breathed easier This is to have succeeded.
thats the best point to start from. Good luck getting from power to force, you are going to need it.
it has to be newton meters, but then you need to know the diameter of the tire, and the surface contact point with the road, plus coeffiecient of friction of both surfaces...
thats the best point to start from. Good luck getting from power to force, you are going to need it.
it has to be newton meters, but then you need to know the diameter of the tire, and the surface contact point with the road, plus coeffiecient of friction of both surfaces...
bah.
I got that already...way ahead of ya
Let me know when you get to the power into force, I'd be cool to see what you used to convert
To have played and laughed with enthusiasm and sung with exultation To know even one life has breathed easier This is to have succeeded.
thats great, you can really lose a lot of weight, but removing stuff such as wipers, panaling, etc, is a little overdoing it (for practical purposes anyway). That is mostly for racing purposes...
^^ I run no rear interior all the time now. then I have a few things that come off for the track only like passenger seat and dr's, stuff like that. everything I do can be finished in time to get to the track by noon and we never start before 10. last time I even fit in changing the oil and spark plugs and rotating the tires. lol
i have a totally stripped interior on my car(everything but centerconsole, speakers, passenger seat, carpet, dash, spare tire w/ jack), with a 200pound friend (myself around 150) i was hitting 14.5 (1/2 tank of gas) when i assumed my trap is 93-95mph. without my friend, and without a muffler (it sounds so good and LOUD) on a strech of vacant road (we messure a 1/4 out and posted my friend at the end) i was hitting about 13.9 with a (1/4 tank of gas).
hmm you know gtec times are about .4 too fast right? you did not do a 13.9.
maybe mid 14 on a real track.
yet there are people claiming 13.95ish on just an Intake? uhh-huhh... well it took my car exactly 15.1seconds to go approximately .4 miles at the time i passed the 1/4 marker my friend said i did approx 13.88 or 13.9. by the time i passed my friend i was doing over 110mph. now, my car was completely stripped with 1/4 tank of gas and NO muffler at approx 200feet above sea level. people are claiming 13.5 completely stripped with an Intake and exhaust. i don't think 13.9 is that unbelievable, and i would believe a person i know with a stop watch over someone arbitrarily saying "you can't do that" because i did.
NOBODY has run 13.5 with just Intake or just about any other mods N/A that I've heard of so I dont know wher eyou got that from.
I also happen to be one of the 2 people that really could run 13.9 gutted with just an Intake. So yes, I know all about how it works. what I'm saying is that your method of timing the run is HIGHLY inaccurate and if you've ever been to the track you'd realize it's harder than you think.
hit the track get a real times slip and then I'll give you props. until then I still say you're timing is off and you're not actually running 13.9
my car is gutted also, I get decent launches, have more then just an Intake now and really did run a 13.7 at the track at 101.13 mph. to be doing 110 mph you should be high 12's low 13's qith a crappy launch. I'm sorry but no N/A celica is likely to be pulling that MPH ANYTIME soon.
and if you would have read my post i was hitting a little above 110 at the END of .4MILES, not .25 MILES. and yes a stop watch is inacurate, people tend to stop them to late because of slow reaction times and sometimes even to early. and yeah, hearing "go" from a walky-talky sucks as well and just helps to increase the slowness of reaction time because one doesn't have a tree to anticipate. inaccurate though my methods may be they hinder more than help. that and doing it several times and getting similar results seems to at least say if my friend is screwing up its with a lot of consistancy (got 14.1 trapping approx 95-97 with a friend in the car besides just me. did that one 3 times over 2 days with less than ideal weather) as for the track, no i don't think i'll do any worse. my launch is good as is my shifting. my car never goes below lift when i shift and i don't tap off rev limiter/fuel-cut. also, it's a pain in the arse to go to a track around here, the only local one is 1/8th and 1/4's are 1.5-2hours away depending on traffic. not to mention it's been raining for 3 days. so give me a damn break, get off my back and don't assume i'm worse than you and that it's "hard for me" because so few have done it.
since when do you gain HP from weight reduction???
2 cars each identical motor.
both 200 whp and 200 wtq
# 1 weighs 3,000lbs # 2 weighs 2,000lbs
which one do you think is faster? lol
you don't gain anything you just get back whats being robbed
If you had $75 and I stole $25 you'd have $50 but if you whooped my a$$ and took back the $25 would be be $25 richer? NO, you'd be right back where you shoulda been before I jacked you. lol
those are the best explanations I can think of right now. lol
I was responding to Lucky's comment about how he said that it was good to have weight in the back and again im argueing that since the celi is fwd, then its not as important as a rwd car.
...i remove my sub enclosuer when i race...it's a bout a .1 sec difference...i am about to remove the seats and Fiberglass one if i ever quit being lazy...then it should even back out to where i was...lol...
and i get betetr gas mileage when i decide to clean out all the 20 oz. bottles
I was responding to Lucky's comment about how he said that it was good to have weight in the back and again im argueing that since the celi is fwd, then its not as important as a rwd car.
oh, lol, i think he was joking
was....5speed with i/h/e 15.41 @ 89.30mph 2.282 60'
I was responding to Lucky's comment about how he said that it was good to have weight in the back and again im argueing that since the celi is fwd, then its not as important as a rwd car.
I forget which post I said that but either I wasnt clear when typing or you didnt read it right
if you have no weight in the back of the celica you have a VERY bad weight distribution for daily driving. so yes, the weight in the back is a good thing for daily driving OR you just have to get used to the new way the car handles.
rear weight is best cause you want weight over the tires
Not on a FWD car where you want grip on the front wheels for drag racing...
To find Newtons of force...that is extremely easy. The force changes all through the rpm band, but take your average torque that the engine produces, then figure out the torque at the wheels (using transmission gear ratio and final drive ratio). Then:
Torque = Force*Distance
Change it up to:
Force = Torque/Radius of the tire
That'll give you lbf, now convert that to Newtons (although I don't see why you need to... Instead just use:
Force = Mass*Acceleration
Change it up to:
Acceleration = Force/Mass
So now you have the force in lbf, now you have to change the weight of the car into mass, drop it in the formula and you can compare the AVERAGE acceleration of 2 cars.
Or you could just do the weight/hp, then compare the 2 cars directly... BTW removing weight doesn't increase Hp, it just takes less hp to make it move, so thus giving the feeling of more hp. Besides say a car with:
2000lbs with 200hp = 10lb/hp Now if you lighten the car to say 1500lbs you get 7.5lb/hp. So when you removed the 500lbs when the car began with the 10lb/hp, the effect the car would have is 50hp, so with that if the car was the same weight and this additonal 50hp, it'd come out with 8hp/lb. Notice how it isn't the same as the predicted 7.5lb/hp, that's because it isn't a linear relationship. Reducing 10lbs on a lightweight car will make a bigger difference than reducing 10lbs on a heavyweight car.
BTW I am a long time Celi.net moderator.
Conrad Andres 1990 Toyota Celica Alltrac (Daily driver 1982 Toyota Starlet (Turbocharged race car)
Not on a FWD car where you want grip on the front wheels for drag racing...
To find Newtons of force...that is extremely easy. The force changes all through the rpm band, but take your average torque that the engine produces, then figure out the torque at the wheels (using transmission gear ratio and final drive ratio). Then:
Torque = Force*Distance
Change it up to:
Force = Torque/Radius of the tire
That'll give you lbf, now convert that to Newtons (although I don't see why you need to... Instead just use:
Force = Mass*Acceleration
Change it up to:
Acceleration = Force/Mass
So now you have the force in lbf, now you have to change the weight of the car into mass, drop it in the formula and you can compare the AVERAGE acceleration of 2 cars.
Or you could just do the weight/hp, then compare the 2 cars directly... BTW removing weight doesn't increase Hp, it just takes less hp to make it move, so thus giving the feeling of more hp. Besides say a car with:
2000lbs with 200hp = 10lb/hp Now if you lighten the car to say 1500lbs you get 7.5lb/hp. So when you removed the 500lbs when the car began with the 10lb/hp, the effect the car would have is 50hp, so with that if the car was the same weight and this additonal 50hp, it'd come out with 8hp/lb. Notice how it isn't the same as the predicted 7.5lb/hp, that's because it isn't a linear relationship. Reducing 10lbs on a lightweight car will make a bigger difference than reducing 10lbs on a heavyweight car.
BTW I am a long time Celi.net moderator.
thanx for the equations
I dont always type correctly. lol once you see me post more you'll see. what that meant if you read the post above it the rear is the best place to remove it from. amazing what puntuation can chaneg a meaning of a sentence. lol
2000-03 Toyota Celica GTS Stock Weight - 2500lbs Stock Wheel Weight - 22lbs each/without tires The 2000-03 Toyota Celica's weigh approximately 2500lbs, dividing by the horsepower of 180, we get about 13lbs/hp. So roughly every 13 lbs removed from the cars weight will add an effective 1 hp. Gas weighs about 8lbs/gal so 16 gallons in the tank weighs 128lbs. If you have only 1 gallon in the tank, its almost a 7 horsepower equivalent difference. A passenger can make even a bigger difference, not to mention the drivers weight. You can easily remove things like the spare tire and jack, the floor mats, the rear seats, interior panels and anything else.
Listed below are some easily removable items: 1. Passenger Seat (37lbs) - Removing the passenger seat is a very easy and effective way to give your Celica a small boost in power. The nice thing is that the seat is only held in place by 4 bolts.
2. Rear Seat (29lbs) - The rear seat is a little more complicated to remove than the passenger seat. When removing just remember where everything goes and it should be easy to put back in place whenever needed.
3. Rear Seat Cushion (10lbs) - The rear cushion should be removed at the same time as the rear seat.
4. Floor Mats/Front and Rear (6lbs) - This has to be the easiest weight reduction available for the Celica owner.
5. Tire Floor Cover (3lbs) - The tire floor cover is right underneath the rear hatch carpeting.
6. Spare Tire and Jack (32lbs) - Another easily removable item.
Total Easy Weight Removal = 117lbs or about a 9hp increase. Intermediate Skill Weight Reductions
The weight reductions included below can even prove more effective than some of the reductions included above. However, once you start removing these items you are taking away from the cars overall appearance and in some cases its more predominent ammenities.
7. Air Conditioning (40lbs) - Removing the air conditioning will net you a reduction of about 40lbs. Be sure to remove everything from the engine as well as behind the dash. Should be completed by the experienced only.
8. Front Hood (50lbs) - Replacing the Front Hood with a lightweight Fiberglass or carbon fiber hood is a great way to remove some weight around the front end of the car. Total weight reduction will be close to 50lbs or greater depending on the aftermarket hood you choose.. If you dont intend on replacing the entire fron hood you could also remove the sound dampener on the inside of the hood. This should help in cooling your engine a little.
9. Stock Wheels (22lbs each/replacement weight from 11lbs each) - Replacing the wheels is a must for anyone seriously interested in increasing there cars Performance. The stock wheels are quite heavy and can be replaced with a variety of aftermarket models. We would suggest searching for lightweight wheels. Replacing your wheels with lightweight wheels will dramatically increase your cars acceleration. We suggest not going over 17 inches if maximum Performance is what you desire to achieve.
10. Front Drivers Seat (40lbs/replacement weight from 14lbs) - The front drivers seat on the Celica can easily be replaced with a much lighter alternative A lightweight racing seat will save you considerable weight and will also be effective once you have added more horsepower to your car.
Total Intermediate Weight Removal = up to 188lbs or a 14+hp increase. More Weight Reduction Some of the things listed below can also be removed or replaced with lighter alternatives than stock. Stock Flywheel - Can be replaced with lightweight aluminum flywheels or machined down in excess of just 13lbs.
Stock Steering Wheel - Can be replaced with lighter Performance steering wheel with no airbag.
Passenger Airbag Removal - Can save some extra weight as well. (Not recommended for normal driving)
Interior Panels - Both the drivers side and passenger side front door panels as well as the rear panels can be removed to save in excess of over 40lbs.
Stock Speakers - With a weight of over 2 pounds a piece these can also be easily removed.
Rear Hatch Cover - This can simply be removed whenever needed. Weight is close to 6 lbs.
Replace Stock Exhaust - The stock Celica exhaust weighs considerably more than some of the aluminum aftermarket exhausts. We suggest going with the TRD Exhaust.
Wiper Motors - Although they are generally needed under almost all driving conditions they CAN be removed if need be although we do not personally recommend it.
Carpet - Removing the carpet as well as the carpet lining underneath will reduce the cars overall weight by close to 40lbs. Removing excess wiring and bolts and brackets will also net you a reduction of close to 10lbs.
good info. BUT, some of the weighting is off. for example, the trd exhaust (extended) only weighs roughly 1 lbs more than a stock gts exhaust. the only exhaust i can think of that weighs considerabily less than the stock exhaust is the veilside tear drop, which weighs a lot less.
i dont kno how much the 16" gts rims weigh by itself, but i do know how much the rim+ stock yokos weight. wen i mesured them 2 weeks ago, they weighted 37 lbs all together. the tires had roughly 40% thread left. the stock 16" rims r not 22 lbs each. if that was true, then that means the stock yokos weigh 14 lbs. which is highly unlikely for stock tires. highly unlikely for any tire sized at 205/50/16
i could be wrong w/ this statement but i heard that for every 1lb you reduce on your rims/tires its the equivelent of reducing 9lbs anywhere else on the car (rotational mass)...so lets just consider the rims
lets say that the first statment is true about the rims weighing bout 22lbs..you go and get yourself some 12lb lightweight rims...thats a drop of 10lbs per rim...so 40 lbs total...now factor in the fact of rotational mass thats 360lbs...aka 27.69 hp freed up...
would this be acurate??
and thats not even factoring in that if you got lightweight rims you probebly also got racing slicks to go along w/ those...
i could be wrong w/ this statement but i heard that for every 1lb you reduce on your rims/tires its the equivelent of reducing 9lbs anywhere else on the car (rotational mass)...so lets just consider the rims
lets say that the first statment is true about the rims weighing bout 22lbs..you go and get yourself some 12lb lightweight rims...thats a drop of 10lbs per rim...so 40 lbs total...now factor in the fact of rotational mass thats 360lbs...aka 27.69 hp freed up...
would this be acurate??
and thats not even factoring in that if you got lightweight rims you probebly also got racing slicks to go along w/ those...
Semi true... Removing 1lb mass off a rotating object will vary the gains that could be had. If you remove 1 lb off the center of the hub you will reduce the rotational inertia of the wheel very little, but if you remove it off 8" from the center of the wheel (16in rim) then you will reduce the moment of interia a lot more. So the statement "every 1lb you reduce on your rims/tires its the equivelent of reducing 9lbs anywhere else on the car" is not accurate, but the idealogy is true. Removing 1lb mass off a rotating object will have a greater gain than removing 1lb of static mass off the chassis of the car.
You need to go in depth with formulas to figure out the moment of inertia of a wheel...but then they aren't simple shapes so they take A LOT more work than simple calculations or braod statements such as the one above.
Conrad Andres 1990 Toyota Celica Alltrac (Daily driver 1982 Toyota Starlet (Turbocharged race car)
^^ well explained, so simply put in order for the statement to be true the weight reduction has to be off the edges of the wheel for that theory to be more realistic, thats how i understood it
i could be wrong w/ this statement but i heard that for every 1lb you reduce on your rims/tires its the equivelent of reducing 9lbs anywhere else on the car (rotational mass)...so lets just consider the rims
lets say that the first statment is true about the rims weighing bout 22lbs..you go and get yourself some 12lb lightweight rims...thats a drop of 10lbs per rim...so 40 lbs total...now factor in the fact of rotational mass thats 360lbs...aka 27.69 hp freed up...
would this be acurate??
and thats not even factoring in that if you got lightweight rims you probebly also got racing slicks to go along w/ those...
i've tried my best to shave off as much lbs as possible on my rims. so i did. i got me some 16" that weighted 13 lbs each. but it didn't really matter. you know y? cause wat ^^ he said.
u need to shave off the weight from the outter most edge. which means lighter tires r just as important as getting a light rim if not more. most tires (205/45/16) weighs anywhere between 18-22 lbs. i've oped for a 19 lbs tire (yoko avs es100). i would've gotten the 18 lbs. toyo t1s, but money is tight. so basically, my rim/tire combo weighs roughly 32 lbs now. plus i got rays lug nuts. compared to the stock lugs the rays r extremely light. all 20 lug nuts weigh > 2 lbs.
so, if the 16" gts rims indeed weighs 22 lbs, that means i have shaved off 9 lbs from the rims alone. now, i don't know how much the stock tires weigh, but i know for a fact that it can't be lighter then the 205/45/16 yoko es100. let s play a guessing game and assume that i have shaved off 15 lbs total from lighter rims, slightly lighter tires, and lighter lug nuts. well, i could tell you that with 15 lbs taken off from each wheels, it didn't make much of a difference.
i have a friend who drives a rsx-s with aem cai and some exhaust. we race often comming back from basketball games (late at night). we usually run from top of 2nd gear to top of 4th. now, before i got my new rims, this is how the race goes 99% of the time. nobody pulls on each other except wen we shift gear, i gain inches on him. so, by the top of 4th, i'm usually ahead by 1 feet. my side mirrors r at his fenders.
now, with new rims/tire: by the top of 4th gear, my side view mirrors r on his front bumper. not much of a difference if you ask me.
the funny thing is, while i was installing my new rims, i weighted both and the gts rims only weighted 4 lbs more then my new rims. the scale i used to weigh the two rims r over 7 years old, so i'm hoping the scale is off.
Today I ripped out all my sound deadening material...took awhile. Actually, come to think about it, I have a little more left to do. So far I measured 20lbs taken off the vehicle in sound deadening material alone! Honestly, I can tell no difference in sound either. This is a mod that takes about 3 hours. Best way to do it is with Dry Ice. Let it sit on there for awhile, and then just take a hammer to it. Comes off in sheets!!!
^^ I doubt you got it "all" lol I found some hiding in some not very acessible places that I havent removed yet. lol you'll have to remove your dash & headliner and remove whats behind them before you will come close to having it all. lol
...Dry Ice...that's a good idea...beats merely the hammer and chisel, which takes forever. I feel like I'm breaking out of Alcatraz.
hey Lucky, where did you go to weigh your car?
Has anyone removed junk from behind the dash? That's the last place for me.
1) theres a nifty little place by my house $8 and 30 seconds of your time I'll be weighing it again in a couple weeks. send me a pm and we could try to setup like a mini meet / get your car weighed day over by my house
2) not yet but soon. I just saw how much there was and as soon as I can have the car down for a weekend I'll be trying to get it all out. may even take it to the track w/o the dash in for $shits and giggles since I gotta pull it anyways lol
anyone have a link to a guide on how to take out this sound deadening material or a pic of how it looks like, and is the interior now louder when your on the freeway if you remove this??
take out your spare and under where it used to be you'll see some stuff stuck to the metal. that is it.
best thing to do is get a heat gun and and paint scraper or use the ice/chisel method. although that would be scary if you tried that to the roof of the car lol
is there sound deadening material on the roof? I don't remember having to take any out. My whole headliner is gone along with the sunroof mechanism (15 lbs). I used bolts to attach the part of the sunroof that slides to the roof.
I havent pulled mine off yet so maybe there isnt any. there is some on my 2000 camry though lol figured they put it on all toyotas lol I'll be doing more over the next few days and this weekend. I been workin to much lately to put in a good effort
Lucky, how much weight do you think a full carbon fiber body would save? To estimate? 200 lbs maybe? And as opposed to an acid dip of the frame? If the Carbon Fiber body only saves 200 lbs then I might need to have a custom chasis made to spec, right?...since that's the only place left to reduce the race weight down to like 1800 lbs.
lol, I went to a local shop and I didn't know they were honda lovers, so they completely dissed me when I said I thought the celica could compete in NHRA All-Motor.
Lucky, how much weight do you think a full carbon fiber body would save? To estimate? 200 lbs maybe? And as opposed to an acid dip of the frame? If the Carbon Fiber body only saves 200 lbs then I might need to have a custom chasis made to spec, right?...since that's the only place left to reduce the race weight down to like 1800 lbs.
That's where the tube framing comes into place.
Conrad Andres 1990 Toyota Celica Alltrac (Daily driver 1982 Toyota Starlet (Turbocharged race car)
without me in the car I could get it to 2000lbs or less if it was a track only car. and thats with out chopping stuff off or changing the frame or c/f body panels. getting to elise weight would not be very pretty but doable
to compete in the NHRA all motor what are the require ments? and why would they say a celica couldnt do it?
that one guy is doin it with a tacoma motor isnt he?
2000lbs is pretty darn good for not changing the body. Then I'd say you can easily get it to 1675 (minimum) race weight in a track-only vehicle. I see dune buggys driving around the streets of LA with license plates so hey they better allow a race celica, huh? Yeah that one guy Chris Rado uses the 2.7L 3RZ Tacoma engine. Matt Scranton uses the Supra 2JZ engine in his Pro RWD celica. All Motor requires 4 cylinder or 2-rotor(mazda), or VW air-cooled, but nothing else is allowed. Hot Rod is the Turbo/nitrous FWD class. Hot Rod is a 4-cylinder-only class and so is Pro-FWD. Celicas really have no representation in All-motor or Hot Rod yet. The difference between Hot Rod and Pro FWD, is that Pro FWD allows tube chasis's and pneumatic air shifters whereas Hot Rod does not, and interestingly "Pro" FWD has not been a lot faster than Hot Rod, which is considered an intermediate class by some, but IMO a pro class as well (just a pro Turbo class with a streetable body/frame and standard style of shifting). I definitely think of All-Motor as a pro class too where some look down on it b/c it's a lot slower (low 10s). If the hondas can do 10 seconds in their 4 cylinders I don't see why the celica 2zz or 3zz can't. The honda peeps told me "The celica has such a narrow power band...you're going to have a hard time landing in lift when it gets that fast...and you might want to have it regeared but still...it's like a motorcycle engine...all the power is only on the top end."...and more b.s. "I'm like so what?...yeah we can land in lift regardless of the speed (called reflexes and shifting!) and we only need to stay in the top end...and even though regearing might be nice...I bet we can still beat the hondas while shifting every second and a half!!!" lol you get the picture...just honda lovers and toyo/yamaha haters. It didn't help that I told them VVTL-i was superior to VTEC and they didn't know we had a 3zz stroker available...they were surprised by the stock hp w/o tuning and nothing else: Trial says 220 hp flywheel (40 hp gain). Coating evey piece of your engine with TechLineCoatings can give you up to a 50 hp increase alone. Throw in at least a 40 hp increase from a race port and polish, and a 30 hp overall tuning boost from the PowerFC and the celica will dominate All-Motor. That doesn't include all the little extras you can get to increase whp even more, which all add up. So I say the hondas don't stand a chance when us celica owners figure out what we're doing with a relatively new car.
damn you've aparently looked a lot into that. lol 10's all motor is NOT gonna be easy OR cheap. don't think I'm THAT serious about my car. lol I'm gonna be happy with 12's.
to see 10's you're going to need 300 whp and weigh 1800 w/ driver to even START thinkin bout a 10.99 IMO.
Not that much...don't know...maybe 20 lbs max since the stock is pretty light to begin with compared with other cars. My carbon fiber hood "feels" a lot lighter than stock but the stock wasn't heavy at all.
^^ haha I guess I have to work out more or something So on the celica, a carbon fiber hood is mainly for looks unlike the huge weight saving on other cars. So it really wouldn't make sense to paint a carbon fiber on a celica would it?
I guess the best way to reduce the weight is to loss your weight (driver), if a 180lbs guy and a 110lbs guy both drive the same car, that would be a big difference.
like a certain somebody who we found out weighs 90 - 100 lbs no wonder his full interior times look clos eto my gutted times I weigh a lil over 180 lbs
sure it aint sexy to some...but what is legit? yes, certainly no show car...but some people actually like the race car look, those who live to race and race to win, and where winning is the only thing that matters. Besides the car still looks nice from the outside.
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i feel left out, but atleast my boy want me to be there with him 
damn run on sentences. lol
