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#315642 Nov 1, 11:17pm
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2001 Toyota Celica
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HAS ANYONE HAVE THIS PROBLEM ON START UP? WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING FOR A FEW SECONDS IN THE MORNING. I'LL TURN ON THE DEFROST, AND THE IDLE READING 1600 TO 1500 WILL DROP DOWN TO ABOUT 700 RPM. TURN THE FROST OFF, IDLE WOULD STAY UNTIL I TAP ON THE GAS AND SHOOT RIGHT BACK UP TO 1500 TO 1600 RPMS.

SGTS #315643 Nov 1, 11:20pm
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is it because ur car is warming up?

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IT'S A 2001, 33248 MILES ON IT. NEVER DID BEFORE UNTIL NOW. IS THIS CONSIDERED NORMAL AFTER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME.

SGTS #315645 Nov 1, 11:49pm
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Pic1

It's normal during first start up. Doesn't seem like nothings going wrong. You were probably warming up the car. Shouldn't go any lower. Sounds fine to me my digital temp. needle on the cluster starts off at around 1500 on first start then after its warm the digital needle would be around the middle. And my idle would be set at 600-900 it fluxuates it's not always exact. I was listening to the high pitch noise the ignition coils would make when rpm's are high and when they drop. Nothing serious I think that's the normal range the ecu is adjusting the idle on the ignition coils. I have 30,250 miles on 2000 GT.

Interval shots I took couple years ago. Notice the RPM and the Temperature. You'll see what I mean.
1953307372-coil01jpeg.jpg


Originate, Innovate, Never Imitate. Since 2000-04.

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Originally Posted by GOLDCELICA
Pic1

It's normal during first start up. Doesn't seem like nothings going wrong. You were probably warming up the car. Shouldn't go any lower. Sounds fine to me my digital temp. needle on the cluster starts off at around 1500 on first start then after its warm the digital needle would be around the middle. And my idle would be set at 600-900 it fluxuates it's not always exact. I was listening to the high pitch noise the ignition coils would make when rpm's are high and when they drop. Nothing serious I think that's the normal range the ecu is adjusting the idle on the ignition coils. I have 30,250 miles on 2000 GT.

Interval shots I took couple years ago. Notice the RPM and the Temperature. You'll see what I mean.

How much time should you wait b4 going on your way in cold weather. I try to wait at least 10 min, trying to keep the engine in top form. Thanks in advance. thumbsup

Last edited by iggy; Nov 1, 2004 11:55pm.

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Pic2 hopefully this helps. Just think of it like turning on your A/C, you're idle will drop then the ecu re-adjust. Our cars don't run on a distributer cap but coil pack/ignition coil.

If your motor turns off something might be wrong with your ignition coils or you may need a tune up. I've had one coil blow on cylinder 3 and the motor wouldn't start. The Car mis-fired and shut down. Bought a new one and it worked like brand new but I don't think that's your problem. thumbsup
1953307380-coil02jpeg.jpg


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iggy #315648 Nov 2, 12:06am
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Originally Posted by iggy
Originally Posted by GOLDCELICA
Pic1

It's normal during first start up. Doesn't seem like nothings going wrong. You were probably warming up the car. Shouldn't go any lower. Sounds fine to me my digital temp. needle on the cluster starts off at around 1500 on first start then after its warm the digital needle would be around the middle. And my idle would be set at 600-900 it fluxuates it's not always exact. I was listening to the high pitch noise the ignition coils would make when rpm's are high and when they drop. Nothing serious I think that's the normal range the ecu is adjusting the idle on the ignition coils. I have 30,250 miles on 2000 GT.

Interval shots I took couple years ago. Notice the RPM and the Temperature. You'll see what I mean.

How much time should you wait b4 going on your way in cold weather. I try to wait at least 10 min, trying to keep the engine in top form. Thanks in advance. thumbsup

Hey Iggy 10 mins sounds good to me. I just wait until my temp. needle hits the middle when it's really really cold. and the idle is at a steady drop. Some people say it doesn't matter and just take off using the car. But I don't like beating my car in the morning on the first start. Just think of it like waking up in the morning and taking warm shower to get your day started. I think it's real important especially if you keep your car outside and it's been out in the cold for a long time. You know the feeling when you don't warm up your car and you need a heavier foot to move it. thumbsup


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You should start driving as soon as possible to get the oil warmed up to operating temperature to prevent excess wear. Just don't drive the car hard till it's fully warm.

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i try not to drive my car unless its warmed up thumbsup

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It says in the celica manual that when its cold you should NOT heat up the car by leaving it on idle. Instead, you should start driving at once. But to keep the RPM's down before the car is propperly heated.

So leaving your car to idle untill it's hot is concidered by toyota to be wrong.

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^^ yeah turn ur car on wait a while and drive it but nice and smooth thats the best way to warm up your car.. not by leaving ur car on idle.. many shop's tell me it's not good

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So no idle time? wtf I'm learning something everyday on here, I had 17 cars now and only one engine blown, 1982 Honda Accord, drove it tills the doors feel off literally. rofl


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iggy #315654 Nov 2, 11:31am
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so which one is it then? go as soon as you turn it on or wait? confused


I fought the law and the law won, i lost my girl and i lost my fun, i fought the law and the law won.....

iggy #315655 Nov 2, 11:44am
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Yeah the manual says that but you can warm up your car especially if it's snowing in your area and if you leave your car off for long periods of time. Two sides to it though and it's not like anyone here is going to warm up there car for 1 hour high revving until it's hot and forget. Wether you warm up for a couple minutes or pull out do what you got to do to make your car idle properly. Common sense guys don't have a heavy foot on the first start up like I had stated it's going to feel like your car is a drag on the streets. If you are always normally driving your car when it gets older in age and it's moving like a turtle warming up will take longer. rofl Yes, you can pull out and drive and yes you can warm up your car to let all the oil flow in the motor until your engine is warm at a "steady idle".

If you don't know the difference between excessively hot and just plain warming up it won't matter to you so do what you need to get your car rolling. Changing subject.

Warm up, drive it until warm, as long as your "idle is in a steady range" and not erratically jumping off the rpm band you should be good.

Hopefully SGTS question was answered and welcome to he boards.


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My principles are to let the car idle until the needle on the gauges moves alittle and then drive smoothly, try not to high revv wink

gts2k #315657 Nov 2, 10:35pm
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hey fella's appreciate all the info on this subject. learn more than i assumed. here at va.beach

SGTS #315658 Nov 2, 11:34pm
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I drive in the winter all the time and I let it warm up at least 2mins. If I don't I find it very hard to drive... it's worse due to the injen CAI... severe bogging when it's very cold!! thumbsdown

Where I drive it does get VERY cold though, after a 9 hr shift with the car in the parking lot at -35C to -40C the car is not ready to go right away.

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Originally Posted by 00GTShope
I drive in the winter all the time and I let it warm up at least 2mins. If I don't I find it very hard to drive... it's worse due to the injen CAI... severe bogging when it's very cold!! thumbsdown
Yeah, I used to have that probem with my eBay AEM replica. I had it even worse since I live near the top of a hill, and going uphill while bogging first thing in the morning was a PITA. All went away after I modded the CAI, though. thumbsup

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