Celica Forums Install Guides and Technical Articles Electrical, Audio, and Security Guides Door Speakers, How To Replace

Replacing Door Speakers


Following Tools Are needed for install:
a) Slotted Screwdriver
b) Phillips Screwdriver
c) 1/8" and 3/8" drill bits
d) Right angle and straight pick tools
e) Drill/Driver
f) Tin Snips
g) Panel popper
h) Crimpers

Supplies Needed:
a) Set of 6 1/2" Component Speakers with 3/4" dome tweeters
b) 14 Gauge Speaker Wire
c) Speed Clips
d) 1 wire Tie
e) Small Piece of Flat Metal Strap
f) 4 Female, 4 bell caps, and 12 U-type Connectors
g) Small sheet of MDF Board


This is not an easy install, You have to be technically inclined to do it.



1-Gather Tools and Equipment needed.



2-Open your doors.



3- With a panel popper, pry off the black triangular piece adjacent to the side mirror. You'll need to remove this in order to replace the door panel later.



4- There are 6 screws that hold the door panel on. 2 hidden under screw caps. A gold colored one under the armrest. One hidden near the door handle/lock, and 2 on the bottom of the door panel.



5- After Removing the screws, grab the panel at the bottom and with the panel popper, reach underneath the panel to release the five clips located along the bottom, right and sides.



6- At the top of the panel there are two cables that activate the door lock and release. unhook them and oull straight out. Now you are ready to remove the mid and tweeter. Take the mid off first and determine if the Speaker you bought will fit.



7- Use a 3/8" drill bit and drill through the 3 rivets that hold the housing into place.



8- The tweeter is held in by one screw and a wire harness. Remove these.



9- Here's a shot of the speaker setup.. 6 /12" mids, 3/4" soft dome tweeter and passive crossover.



10- Find a location to Install the crossover. When looking for a place to attach anything always roll the window up and down to assure clearance. We placed the crossover near the bottom of the door and inside the sheet metal frame under the vapor barrier. Make sure to peel back the plastic slowly so you can replace it by just pressing it in place.



11/12- Cut 3 lengths of 14 gauge cable long enough to reach from crossover to speakers. Put 2 U-Connectors on one end of each of the 3 pieces. When Crimping the connectors to the wire, be sure not to crimp on the tiny connector seam/split as it can sever the wire. After the wires are connected to the crossover, tie knots in the wire to indicate each wires designation, one knot for the mid, two for the tweeter and none for the input. Then clump the wires together via wire tie.




13- Using the crossover as a guide mark the spots with a screwdriver on the outside of the door frame where you'll screw down the crossover. Make the Holes with a 1/8" bit.



14/15- before securing the crossover. Set the tweeter lever control in the middle. After its installed. replace the crossovers clear plastic cover.




16- Run the wire behind the vapor barrier and gently replace it. A little pressure should secure it into place.



17- Before Fastening speakers to the door, cut the wire to size and hook up the appropriate connectors for each speaker. Then attach them to their respective speaker. Heres where the knots we tied earlier come in handy.



18/19/20- We had to trace the speaker brackets out on MDF board and create our own speaker brackets because the originals are scrapped after drilling them out. Drill out the holes and mount them to the door.





21- After wiring up the mid, hold the speaker in the mounting ring and check for window clearance behind the driver. Once you're sure the window will move unobstructed, screw the speaker into its mount.



22/23- Using the factory bracket as a guide and a piece of metal strap, make a tweeter bracket by bending a flat strap into position and cutting it to size with the tin snips.




24/25- We recommend placing a speed clip between the tweet and finished bracket to increase tightness. After pulling the tweeter wires through the housing, screw the tweets mounting cup to the bracket with the speed clip in between.




26/27- Line up the new tweeter with the stock tweeter and bracket to make sure it extends an equal distance from the door. Then screw the Tweeter brace in place and connect the final strands of 14 gauge wire.




28- Finished. Put it back together, and crank it up.


Source...
http://teamcelica.com/installs/speakers/door.html

you do not have to make your own mounting brackets you can get them at www.crutchfield.com [crutchfield.com] they run 13 bucks for the pair search for (adapter brackets)

GREAT INSTALL GUIDE. thanks guys

what is the speaker sizes?

they are listed in step # 9

how bout the rear speakers how wud yu replace them?

here...
https://celicahobby.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/65803/speakers.html

and here...
https://celicahobby.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/15554/speaker-installation-question.html

FYI: I had no problem using the factory mounts for the speakers after drilling the rivets out. I simply drilled them out with a 1/4" drill bit and cut the factory speaker out of it.

I then used a nail cutter (or anything that'll work) to cut the "spokes" out of the housing. I replaced it with my new Pioneer 6 1/2" 3-way (in the back) and easily screwed it into the factory plastic housing. Bought some small nuts/bolts/washers from Home Depot and remounted 'em no problem. Solid as hell and works perfect! Saves the step of getting MDF board and cutting it up, etc.

Also, the factory mount is quite tall and the MDF board is quite thin giving rise to the problem of not having enough depth to mount the speakers. Then you gotta build up your mount more, blah blah blah. Hope this helps someone!

Does anyone know what brand the factory speakers are in the 2000 Celica GT??????

Hey i got new jl audio vr comp.s to put in, i just ordered the mounting bracets, but for the wiring it has seperate wires for the tweeter and the 6.5 and on my crossover it says input and then tweeter and 6.5. What am i pos to do put both of the wires (that went to the tweeter and the ones to 6.5s to the input or what?) and also it has 3db or 5db what should i put it at? Please get back asap it is imporant and my car is sitting apart. Thanks Chad

you wouldn't happen to have pics on how you cut the speaker out of the housing. im just looking at it and i can't figure how its going to work. will the factory harness that was plugged into the stock one still be used? thanks.


Paul

I wanted to add to this thread since I found it so helpful. I managed to keep the existing mounts as well.

I used a 3/16 " high quality cobalt drill bit to make short work of the rivets. I found that starting with the drill on a very high speed and applying very light pressure to begin kept the rivets from spinning in their housing and melting the plastic.

After the housings were out, I flipped them over and placed a medium sized flat head screwdriver as close to the edge of the housing as possible and tapped the end with a hammer. The spokes chip off very easily and since this is just a speaker mount, your work does not have to be clean.

After the spokes were broken, I emptied the sharp plastic chards into a trash bin and used a utility knife to cut the foam surround of the speaker and the existing speaker wires attaching the factory speaker wire mount to the speaker. The speaker then drops right out into the aforementioned trash bin

There seems to be plenty of room to screw speakers into the existing housing but I had 6 3/4 Rockford components which were a little large for that (the screw holes were beyond the edge of the housing). I used Gorilla Glue to run a bead all the way around the outside of the housing where it attached to the speaker and left it face down to cure overnight. It actually created a fantastic and durable seal.

You can certainly use the existing hardware if you like. Either some basic solder skills or a crimping set with some clips will do the trick. From what I could gather, the metal tabs on the factory mount correspond to the metal tabs on the speaker if you line them up. I used a crutchfield connector set since I purchased it with the speakers but would certainly have used the existing hardware if I had known it would be so easy.

Finally, re attach the speakers to the door using #14 3/4" sheet metal screws and a washer to ensure a good tight seal between the screw head and the plastic mount.

The tweeters I installed exactly as above. I found you can use the existing brackets by drilling out the screws and using a screwdriver to pry the tweeter away from the metal and glue. But the existing brakets put my tweeters to close to the door plastics and wouldnt fit. I hope this helps.

Dammit! I wish I read this before I replaced my front speakers...
Anyhow some things I did/found.
I made my own spacers out of scrap plywood that was lying around. The key thing I wanted is to be 28mm thick so as to get the speakers as close as possible to the door trim. I did this by gluing two pieces. I think it was 8 ply and 5 ply together. Note I had to trim down one of the mounting corners because it fouls the door trim on the bottom.

Cut larger holes in door trim to fit tweeters


Installed crossovers inside footwells


Still to install amp - plan is to go under passengers seat- right at front

I have a 2000 Toyota celica GTS, I have an after market deck and amp and subwoofer in it. My front speakers are blown, so I removed my door panels to replace the speakers on each side. I don't need the tweeters replaced, they are still good. But I noticed there are 4 wires going to the tweeter and 4 to the speaker (woofer). Are these wired in parallel? Is there a way to leave the tweeter as is and install a component speaker with tweeter instead of mid as 1 unit?

I was able to use the factory bracket by just using a Dremel with a Cut-Off wheel... worked quite well actually