Celica Forums General Discussion Exterior Stock Electrical System Amps? (Relocating Battery)

Hi, I'm relocating my battery to the rear of the car. I've found all the parts I need (sealed/vented NHRA approved battery box, 1 and 4 gauge cables, inline fuse holder, fused distribution block), but all I need to know now is what size fuses I need:

1.The inline fuse will be on the 1 gauge positive battery cable, mounted right oustide of the battery box, so I need to know the amount of amps the car will draw through that.

2.In the engine bay, the 1 gauge battery cable will be split by a fused dist. block into 4 gauge wires, going to whatever the stock positve battery cable went to (haven't looked yet). I'm sure there's at least a cable to the alternator and fuse box, so I need to know the proper size fuses for them, along with whatever else the stock cables go to.


BTW, I'm using all ANL fuses, since I've heard they're the best for this application because parts like the starter can cause a momentarly spike in amps. Thanks for any help!

TTT

TTT one more time.

hey man, i met you at the meet with all the evos back in december. sorry but i have no idea what fuses you need. why are you doing this? ive only herd of this being done to a celica with a 3S-GTE swap and that was only done cause there was no room in the engine bay for it.

Hey, what up. I'm doing this for two reasons:

1. My stock battery died in spring '03, and the replacement battery Pep Boys gave me was about 1/2" taller. That didn't matter till I got my APR strut bar, and found out the battery tie down was too thick to fit (wedges between battery and strut bar).

2. To improve weight distribution. The closer the car gets to a 50/50 weight distribution, the better it will handle. Stock distribution is 63/37, so we've got a ways to go.

I like your idea, I also really like your sig image. Mega Man = rocks

Thanks.

i could be missing the obvious here...but wouldnt the same fuse setup apply no matter where your battery is? like i said..maybe i'm missing something but it seems to me that since you still wantt to have the same functions with a rear battery setup that you had with the stock battery location..the fuses would all stay the same.

for the fuse setupd of your car, you can link to this site (you will need adobe acrobat reader):
ecelica.com: fuse block diagrams

Nah, these fuses aren't to protect the accessories, they're to protect the new wiring. Since the new wires are going through the interior car, if one overheats and catches fire, that's the end of the car. If the battery was in the engine bay, the wire would probably just burn up and not take anything else with it.

oh, now i'm getting it..sorry about that.

hmmmm...not sure about what size fuse to use but you can always hook and ammeter into the line and test how much current is flowing through during different times under different conditions. Say have the engine running with all accessories on, rev the engine, and take a measurement...etc etc. For there you can get a base amperage then use a fuse that is 5amps greater than your peak load. Just a suggestion...and I chose 5amps above as an arbitrary number you might want to take further measurements over time and research the engine swap above mentioned to see what they used

I agree, if you can't find some kind of spec, you can take measurements as described, but..
It seems to me that every single part is already on a fuse (through the fuse boxes). A wire can't heat up and catch fire because the fuse will blow for whichever device is drawing too much current. Then again if you short a hot node on the body of that wire you're putting in, you do have a problem.
About weight distribution, (1) it's not all that much wight, and (2) more weight over the front wheels is good on front wheel drive. Notice how the car dips forward as you decelerate, this gives you better traction. Wings matter more on RWD.
Mostly it seems kinda like a bad idea. Maybe you should consider keeping a full tank of gas if you want 50-50 weight distribution.