currently i have a 04 gts manual - and about 1k US to spend on my first upgrades. i heard i should invest in intake and exhaust first for more hp.. dude said i'd get about a 10% gain or 18 more hp.
i've done a little browsing on intakes and the AEM cold air intake seems to stand out.
just looking for some opinions please. if you guys had a stock 04 gts manual and 1k US to spend on performance upgrades, what would you purchase and why?
you'll be set with the AEM or Injen. Other products such as cat-back exhausts will help you out too. Browse through this Custom Mods & Performance Tuning Tips & Reviews forum and you'll find a bank of information on how to increase your GTS' performance.
you'll be set with the AEM or Injen. Other products such as cat-back exhausts will help you out too. Browse through this Custom Mods & Performance Tuning Tips & Reviews forum and you'll find a bank of information on how to increase your GTS' performance.
Yea, I'd start with an intake and exhaust...Keep in mind that AEM will give you low end power, while Injen will give you more power in the higher RPMs
When you say $1k, do you mean $1,000 you want to spend on just parts or do you need to factor in installation?
I know if I had $1k to spend on a totally stock car I would do this...
1. Injen Race Division Cold Air Intake - $205 from the e-celica.com store! 2. Tanabe Super Racing Medallion exhuast - $500 from nopionline.com 3. Hotchkis Sport Coil Springs - $189 from Suprastore.com 4. APR Flex Control Bar - $110 from the e-celica.com store!
You could even take out 3 and 4 then just do DC Sports Headers.
think ill start with an AEM CAI.. ehh all this hydro-lock talk is making me nervous though. it should be alright considering we don't have too many floods here and it has to be submerged.
headers- ? what is the difference between a 4 to 1 and a 4 to 2 to 1? which would be better for performance?
sorry guys, i'm sucha noob, but is an injen CAI or AEM CAI more effective?
currently i have a 04 gts manual - and about 1k US to spend on my first upgrades. i heard i should invest in intake and exhaust first for more hp.. dude said i'd get about a 10% gain or 18 more hp.
i've done a little browsing on intakes and the AEM cold air intake seems to stand out.
just looking for some opinions please. if you guys had a stock 04 gts manual and 1k US to spend on performance upgrades, what would you purchase and why?
try abot 8 horspower...definatley not near 18 (unless you go for a race-only exhaust--but you still wouldnt get 18).
intakes + exhausts in a 7th gen celica generally only give about 7-9 horsepower.
celica engines are extremely low displacement (1.8L)...and genereally speaking its harder to get more horses out of a low displacement engine than with a higher dispacement engine (horses come more freely the higher your displacement is--as a rule of thumb).
gimme a min and i'll get you a couple of links (1 that compares exhausts, and another that gives dynos for an injen cai and veilside titanium exhaust combo)
With $1k you can get an intake, exhaust, and header
doubtful.
the only reliable brand of headers for the gts is currently trial (or did dc motorsports finally come out with theirs)--and the trial header will run you $800 easy (and without shipping).
chalk up an exhaust (usually at least $400) and a cai (usually about $200) and your WELL over 1k.
think ill start with an AEM CAI.. ehh all this hydro-lock talk is making me nervous though. it should be alright considering we don't have too many floods here and it has to be submerged.
headers- ? what is the difference between a 4 to 1 and a 4 to 2 to 1? which would be better for performance?
sorry guys, i'm sucha noob, but is an injen CAI or AEM CAI more effective?
the 2nd generation aem cai is usually considerred better than the injen cai--more low end power (but i think less top end power if i remember right).
hydrolock should not really be a concern..it basically has to be totally submerged for hydrolock to happen (which is odd and if you watch where your going it should prevent this). that said, sometimes you will find yourself in a place where deep puddles from flooding are inevitable.
if you are overly concerned with hydrolock..get an rmm shortram or an injen shortram. they offer very similar horsepower gains (but you are adding an exhaust so the cai will have more advantage with that) and they are also more of a show mod (they look better than a cai under the hood..because all the piping is displayed).
the difference between 4-1 headers and 4-2-1 headers is just the setupd. 4-1 headers are one piece, and 4-2-1 headers are 2 pieces (a 4-2 pipe and another bolt on 2-1 pipe). personally i prefer a 4-1 header because air flow resistance is minimized (and thus more power can be obtained) but the difference is VERY slight. but on the other hand, 4-2-1 headers are generally easier to install. -Steven (moderator) has more info on this so you might wanna pm him if you have more questions.
if i were you, i'd start simple and get a couple of bolt-ons.
1. get a honda s2000 antenna (about $15 bucks--unless you have the power antenna) 2. aem cai ($200) 3. trd or tsrm exhaust ($500) 4. b&m shortshifter ($150) 5. tint ($150+)
as i mentioned above, i'd give you a couple of links (1 for a list of exhaust dynos for a celica gts and 1 for a dyno & article of a veilside titanium exhaust & injen cai)
and a freebie...for a great product list of mods that can be done to your celica, its worth checking out intensepower.com [intensepower.com] . its a very reputable autosport shop and has one of the most complete celica product lists available on the internet.
it's also a great idea to check out our products forum right here on ecelica
if i had a 1k to spend in mods to get those power possible i would get
a kazuma exhaust-$350 nitrous express 50 shot-about $500 total is about 60-65 whp gain but those are both illegal for street
or you can stay completely street legal and get
UR pullies-$300 AEM intake-$220 TRD exhaust-$450 close to 20whp gain
as you can see goin with nitrous will be your best bet
more of a 10 whp gain. pullies will hardly give you any horsepower (MAYBE 1-2). aem cai gives about 3, trd exhaust gives about 4.
however, i'll say 10 because the combo of the aem cai/trd exhaust will produce slightly more power together than if the parts were separate (removing bottlenecks)
if i had a 1k to spend in mods to get those power possible i would get
a kazuma exhaust-$350 nitrous express 50 shot-about $500 total is about 60-65 whp gain but those are both illegal for street
or you can stay completely street legal and get
UR pullies-$300 AEM intake-$220 TRD exhaust-$450 close to 20whp gain
as you can see goin with nitrous will be your best bet
more of a 10 whp gain. pullies will hardly give you any horsepower (MAYBE 1-2). aem cai gives about 3, trd exhaust gives about 4.
however, i'll say 10 because the combo of the aem cai/trd exhaust will produce slightly more power together than if the parts were separate (removing bottlenecks)
nope sorry your wrong about the pullies
notice i said UR pullies, those replace ALL the pullies not like AEM
if i had a 1k to spend in mods to get those power possible i would get
a kazuma exhaust-$350 nitrous express 50 shot-about $500 total is about 60-65 whp gain but those are both illegal for street
or you can stay completely street legal and get
UR pullies-$300 AEM intake-$220 TRD exhaust-$450 close to 20whp gain
as you can see goin with nitrous will be your best bet
more of a 10 whp gain. pullies will hardly give you any horsepower (MAYBE 1-2). aem cai gives about 3, trd exhaust gives about 4.
however, i'll say 10 because the combo of the aem cai/trd exhaust will produce slightly more power together than if the parts were separate (removing bottlenecks)
nope sorry your wrong about the pullies
notice i said UR pullies, those replace ALL the pullies not like AEM
UR as in unorthodox racing?
the ultra s crank pulley is about $200 itself and the ultra ss pulley set runs about $350. so if you replace all the pulleys you'll run well over $1000 with the exhasut & cai.
also, unorthodox advertises an AVERAGE hp increase of 8-15 horses in the ss pulley set and an AVERAGE of about 5-7 horses in the ultra s crank pulley.
obviously this is IF you retune your ecu and also (and obviously) this is an average.
since the celica's pulleys are pretty efficient on it's own..i'd say maybe 5-7 horses if you added BOTH the crank pulley and the ss pulley set.
but really my original point was that you were just talking about the crank pulley (it would fit more into the $1000 range with the cai and exhaust).
in any case, i havnt seen a dyno. if you have, then by all means feel free to share but i havn't even heard of a dyno with these pullies yet.
also, the unorthodox pulleys were deemd very unreliable and multiple problems have been reported--so as of now i do not recommend anyone buy them.
they seem unreliable for one reason and one reason only
"quality of installation"
the only reason people have problems are because of bad installation
some people here have them and love them
that is true in many cases--but it is also true that it has happened in enough cases that i can't in my right mind recommend it.
many times it is because of installation. but theres been quite a few problems with the pulleys so one has to wonder : is it ALL installation?
maybe so, and maybe its just coincidence. but it's also worth remembering that a car is a very big (and expensive) investment. a celica is something not easily repaired (or replaced) so i would think twice before i took unnecessary risks.
my point isn't to argue here, and i don't think yours is either. it's more to inform, and that we did.
Step 1. Intake This must be one of the most common and easiest upgrades. There is a huge market for filters and intakes. The intake does not really add any horsepower it just quits restricting the engine from freely breathing. Intakes are avialable in two versions. CAI(cold air intake) and normal under hood mounted intake. The most common intakes are Iceman and AEM. Both have there advantages. The AEM is made of metal which means that it heats slower but also cools slower but I think that the metal looks better. The Iceman is made of plastic and some people say that it will melt. The Iceman can be changed at will from CAI to under hood intake. The plastic heats faster but also cools faster. It's your car and your decision.
HP Gain: 3-6 (depends on tempature and type of filter you are running) Companies: AEM, Iceman, Injen, HKS, Greddy, K&N, Apexi.
Step 2. Exhaust This has got to be one of the biggest and most competative aftermarket products. Anyone who is Anyone makes an exhaust. This is also an extremely easy bolt on option. There are pretty much four possable upgrades here. I will start with headers. These come in two options. 4-2-1 and 4 into 1. I am not shure how they differ but I have heard that the 4-2-1 headers give the most tourque. next there is the muffler. That just depends on what you are going for. Looks or Loudness. The cat converter is usually the next upgrade. I think it is best to buy an aftermarket one because I have heard that you can acually get more power like that rather than just takeing it off. Not to mension the huge ticket you can get from takeing it off. And the last option is to just replace the whole pipe and make the diamater larger. You can buy hundreds of different variations of this but all pretty much do the same thing. Make your car a little faster and a lot louder. Apexi World Sport is a good option for a quieter exhaust.
HP Gain(Muffler):1-5 HP Gain(Headers):1-5 HP Gain(Pipeing):1-3 Companies: HKS, Greddy, Apexi, Bosal, Tanabe, DC Sports.
Step 3. Suspension Some people overlook the suspension of a car and just think of it as a way to lower the car. Suspension is just as important as almost any other preformance feature. Ask any car racing team I dont care if it is NASCAR or BTCC or NHRA any team will tell you that the suspension is one of the most important things on the car preformance wize. Bad weight transfer can result in loss after loss. Ok so now you know that you need to chunk the stock suspension what are you gonna replace it with? well there are tonz of aftermarket suspension componets that can be purchased. I do not want to be bias for a company so I will leave it up to you on who's suspension to purchase. And before you slam your car to tha ground always think about where you will need to be driving. The lowest I would go would be about 2" off the ground but I got a speedbump on the entrance to my neighborhood so 2" is out of the question.
Step 4. Pully's Sprockets's and Cam's These options are good for quick acceloration and deceloration. They all offer good Hp gains. The cams allow for real high revving if you buy spoon sports cams your screaming honda can reach 9k. The type R's reach about 8.4k. The sprockets allow for retard and advance in the timings and need a dyno to be tuned but the outcome can be very pleasing. And the ultra light pully's allow for better acceleration and more HP.These mods take a little more skill and confusion but I would suggest doing all of these mods.
HP Gain:7-20 Companies: AEM, Unorthodox, Greddy, Vortech, Apexi.
Step 5. Bottom End Build Up This consist of Boring out the cylinders and buying new pistons and piston rod's. You can buy all kinds of pistons like dome pistons that offer more compression and concave pistons that lower compression. If you are going to run higher compression I would suggest not buying a Turbo or a nitrous system. Sometimes bigger pistons do not mean more power but can acually lower power.
HP Gain:0-5 Companies: Usually done in a garage.
Step 6. Electronics If you want my suggestion then there are only two companies that I would buy from for this mod, Field and Apexi. Feild has been making VTEC and fuel controllers for a while and I would really trust them. I am not shure but someone told me that there manual was in japanese. If so I hope you have a lot of rice boy friends. On the other hand you can buy Apexi's v-tec and fuel controller. Apexi has a very good controller also, very reliable, and accurate if you set it up right.
HP Gain: 0-15 Companies: Apexi, Field, Blitz, Greddy.
Step 7. Super or Turbocharger If you are serious about making your car fast boost is the next option. Jackson Racing is making a supercharger for the Accord, which is avaible now and is pretty reliable. The turbo can be annoying because you have to wait for the power to come as the turbo spools up. The large the turbo the more lag. Thus being the reason for twin turbos which over come this problem to an extent by using turbos where one is large an dthe other is small and variations on that concept. The supercharger is belt driven compression so it always has power from the start. The turbo's do offer a huge possable gain but superchargers are a good alternatice boost option. This way you dont have to wait til your turbo spools up and when it finally does the car switches gears. Before you make this mod you really need to do steps 1-6 first because otherwise you will run into a lot of problems.
Hp Gain: 50-200+ Companies: Garrett, Greddy, HKS, Blitz, Turbonetics, Rev Hard, Star Performance.
Step 8. Brakes Now you got you lil pocket rocket rollin you need to stop all of that power. There are three basic things you need to do when preforming this mod. You need Bigger Brake Rotors, ( drilled and slotted rotors from AEM ) New and better Calipers and Brake Pads ( you can also buy these from AEM )
HP Gains:N/A Companies: Brembo, AEM, Baer, Power Slot, Wilwood.
Step 9. Nitrous The all known power of N20 its not NOS, that is a company. The movie the Fast and The Furious made NOS so popular but here is the truth to how it works and why it does.
When you heat nitrous oxide to about 570 degrees F, it splits into oxygen and nitrogen. The injection of nitrous oxide into an engine therefore means that more oxygen is available during combustion. Because you have more oxygen you can also inject more fuel, and that means the same engine can produce more power. This added 02 can let the engine burn a lot more fuel thus increasing power. Nitrous oxide is one of the simplest ways to provide a significant horsepower boost to any gasoline engine.
Nitrous oxide has another effect that improves performance even more. When it vaporizes, nitrous oxide provides a significant cooling effect on the intake air. When you reduce the intake air temperature you increase the air's density, and this provides even more oxygen inside the cylinder.
A property of nitrous oxide is that at about 565 degrees F., it breaks down into nitrogen and oxygen. When it is introduced into the intake tract of an internal combustion engine, it is sucked into the combustion chamber and, on the compression stroke, when the charge air temperature reachs 565 deg., a very oxygen-rich mixture results. If we add extra fuel during nitrous oxide injection, the effect is like a super charger or increasing the compression ratio of the engine.
Automotive nitrous systems work like the automotive eqivalent of a jet's "afterburner" and is used for short duration extra bursts of power. Nitrous oxide has this effect because it has a higher percentage of oxygen content than does the air in the atmosphere. Nitrous has 36% oxygen by weight and the atmosphere has 23%. Additionally, nitrous oxide is 50% more dense than air at the same pressure. Thus, a cubic foot of nitrous oxide contains 2.3 times as much oxygen as a cubic foot of air. Just do a bit of math in your head and you can see if we substitute some nitrous oxide for some of the air going into an engine than add the appropriate amount of additional fuel, the engine is going to put out more power.
Simply stated, nitrous oxide injection is very much like a supercharger or a compression ratio increase in that, during combustion, it can dramatically increase the dynamic cylinder pressure in the engine. The only problem with nitrous oxide is that it is fairly bulky and the engine needs a lot of it. Like any gas it takes up a fair amount of space even when compressed into a liquid. A 5-liter engine running at 4,000 RPM consumes about 10,000 liters of air every minute (compared to about 0.2 liters of gasoline), so it would take a tremendous amount of nitrous oxide to run a car continuously. Therefore a car normally carries only a few minutes of nitrous oxide and the driver uses it very selectively by pushing a button. Small doses of nitrous oxide can be used in stock engines to gain 25-35% more power. In my opinion, any more than nitrous than that with a stock engine compromises durability too much. This is not only true of nitrous but any modification. Take a stock 82 or 84 engine, up the horsepower to 300hp and do nothing to improve durability and your engine will eventually suffer. Once you pass the 35% power increase mark with nitrous oxide you need to look at things like forged pistons, better connectiing rods, better bearings, etc.
HP Gains: 50-400+ (dependant on many variables) Companies: NOS, Nitrous Express (NX), Venom, Zex.
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you'll be set with the AEM or Injen. Other products such as cat-back exhausts will help you out too. Browse through this Custom Mods & Performance Tuning Tips & Reviews forum and you'll find a bank of information on how to increase your GTS' performance.
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